We're repairing sash windows throughout our Victorian terrace and need to replace cills on at least three windows, at present have two windows removed and hopefully will start on third at weekend.
I'll also need to replace some of the inner and outer box linings but this doesn' strike me as the tricky part.
Having never had to replace cills before turning process over in my mind and a couple of things crop up:
[1] A band saw might make light work of making joints in new cills. Saw would need to be portable, so table-top type, as no workshop here and equipment stored in the basement. Was thinking of Axminster AWSBS2:
Comments appreciated.
[2] As to machining joints in new cills, it occurs that it might be easier to rout housing joint in cill for stiles before profiling the cill. If this is true then rather than getting local timber yard to supply cill ready profiled I'd need to do profiling myself last. So how to go about this? Would I manage with circular saw or is more machinery needed here?
My local timber yard stocked sills damn near exactly right as a replacement - in both hardwood and whitewood.
I just cut the rebates for the stiles using my sliding compound mitre saw after setting the depth stop to suit - then cleaned up with a chisel. But you could as easily do it with a hand saw - I don't think a router is necessary.
I'll check this out with AA Timber over here in E7. They certainly had some cills in the yard last time I looked otherwise are quite happy to machine to size.
Thanks for the encouraging tip. It's mostly hand tools here, but can lay my hands on a mitre saw. Might save on the elbow grease.
The one I'm referring to is a power circular saw of which there is a fair choice at reasonable prices - but it's a large thing to store if you don't need it for other things. I only used it because I already had it - a good tenon saw would have done as well with some care.
I find it useful to be able to cover up quickly when the rain starts. If you reverse the sashes and just pin them in place you can work on the outside bits from the inside, and at a comfortable height.
Tricky in the sense that you shouldn't reduce the interior dimensions of the channel. I've seen "refurbishments" where the weights can't pass each other easily and are forever jamming.
In a refurbishment all the sill has to do is sit there. It doesn't really need to be jointed because the box doesn't have to be a free standing item
Dear Martin Some tips: I have replaced literally hundreds of these - that's my business.
It is much easier if, as you have done, you remove the frame but there is no need unless you are for other reasons If you are doing it "in situ" - you need to cut each part of the style at an acute angle to effect a scarfe joint.on replacement and to allow the sill to be cut out and removed The sill is best in double vac treated Scots pine with the treatment done after fabrication That is better than most hardwoods (Balsa is a hardwood!) (See the earlier link on durabitly of timber)
Get the profile made up by a joiner to be exactly the same as the original sill and cut it to shape to fit the syles etc and then have it treated prime all the end grain before fitting put on a dpc and run the dpc up the sides some 6" If you cant get it double vac treated dip all cut ends overnight in and OS borne fungicide before priming and fitting Use the Dulux Weathersheild green pimer or any heavy metal primer (its an old Victorian trick to block end grain0
There is no need for any band saw Any coumpound chop saw or even hand saws are fine
Make sure that if the original has not got a decent slope on it that you adapt the new one such that it has a minimum of 10 degrees Make sure each arris is well rounded and the front one has a radius of at least 10 mm Sharp edges cause paint failure All box frame edges should be rounded to a radius of 1 or 2 mm and not left sharp
Use a polysulphide mastic to make the joins with masonry (See DAS 68 from the BRE) isoalate styles with thin (63 micron) poly by wrapping it round the sides and top and stapling in place Point in and backing plaster first then cut off poly then do the final coats of plaster or architrave to cover join prime any bare wood early on under coat before you put in the sashes put in draft stripping (Reddiseals) parting and staff beads
paint sashes out of the box when flat so paint does not run
put in sashes with staples not nails in sash cords
check weights by using a balance to ensure compatability with sashes Check and repair putty if duff
Use Window Care resin to fix back box frames if scafed in situ
Had the same thought as I stood in daughter's bedroom with box frame on the floor (in several pieces) and big hole in wall. Improvised a temporary window with 4x2 hastily fetched from timber yard, OSB and a handy spare sash from the basement.
As the box is out of the wall I'd like to re-make the joints properly.
My mistake for abbreviating above. A friend recent bought a sliding compound mitre saw which I can use if necessary.
On the previous rare occasions I've needed to produce proper joints I did so with hand tools. I always get half way through and start wishing I had some machinery to ease the effort and achieve better precision. Hence my musings about a bandsaw. Perhaps I could improvise with the borrowed sliding saw and avoid splashing out for a bit of kit that won't see the light of day again once this project is done.
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