Repainting Georgian-style windows

Sandpaper?

Jonathan

I've done it with a gas blowlamp and a sheet of aluminium as a heat deflector with the edge held against the putty and angled slightly away from the glass. As you need one hand for the blowlamp and one for the scraper, you really need a second person to hold the heat deflector.

A sharp chisel dragged across the surface at 45 (or so) degs. Or several pieces of 6mm glass cut into 4" squares by your local glazier (probably for free)

A "george" is the fancy version of your bit of ali - and it works (with reasonable care). Not sure if it's still sold as a tool.

My dad used to have an infra red electric stripper - a red hot element. It was slow compared to a blowtorch or hot air gun but the theory was that the IR tended not to heat the glass so it was moderately safe on the fiddly bits.

Shave hook.

Shave hook

I thought a George was for masking when painting. Never though of it as a heat shield.

Never come across one of those. I grew up with paraffin blow lamps as the only option. You did, however, need to be very careful with them and they were not very adjustable. The big advantage of my gas blowlamp is that I can have a wide range of nozzles, for various different jobs.

/Vir Campestris ... the ones with all the wood bits between the panes. The main frame strips fine with a heat gun, but I'm nervous of using it too near the glass. And the paint does all have to come off - it's peeling in patches. What's the easiest way to get it off? IIRC methylene chloride paint stripper can't be bought any more. /q

EBay item number:12093401049

Jim K

Actually you are right now I recall back 30 years.

Never heard of it being used in stripping.

Didn't know it was a specific tool have used any old bit of bent sheet as a "George".

Is "George" a trade name that has passed into general use (generic), a bit like Hoover for vacuum cleaner?

Fine if you can sharpen it every five minutes. If not, use "clean cut"

/ Fine if you can sharpen it every five minutes. If not, use "clean cut"

Go on then, how does "clean cut" glass help you strip paint from its' surrounding frame?

Jim K

It would never have occurred to me to use a shave hook without first having softened the paint with a blow torch. Then it doesn't need sharpening, but you do occasionally need to remove accumulated paint.

You can't figure that out? Pulled towards you at an angle of 45 degs, paint will normally flake off at a rate of knots without damaging the wood. When it's blunt you have 7 more edges. Get the glazier to cut 50 or so 4" x 2" pieces. Important that these are carefully ("clean") cut from 6mm glass. Handy things to have around

/You can't figure that out? Pulled towards you at an angle of 45 degs, paint will normally flake off at a rate of knots without damaging the wood. When it's blunt you have 7 more edges. Get the glazier to cut 50 or so 4" x 2" pieces. Important that these are carefully ("clean") cut from 6mm glass. Handy things to have around /q

Nope never heard of that one. Define 'clean cut' again would you?

Jim K

The difference between a pro cut and you gouging the surface with a cheap tungsten cutter. The quality of the edge is important in this instance

In message , stuart noble writes

Popular with Minor Traveller owners, when revarnishing the wood.

Polishers use steel cabinet scrapers, which come in various shapes and sizes to accommodate mouldings. The game is to remove as much as you can with a sharp edge, and only use chemicals to clean up the residue. I've stripped 90% of a painted door that way. Tough on the arm muscles but at least you only need a dustpan and brush to clear up. Sanding is of limited use with a lot of traditional finishes which immediately melt on to the abrasive. Fine for polyurethane and other modern finishes though.