Releasing company fuse from mounting board and cooker cable size?

[Michael Chare]

I want to cut about 2" of the top of the board that holds an electricity meter and the company fuse. To do this I need to remove the board. I can see how to unscrew the meter, but there are no visible screws for the company fuse. Will these become visible if I remove the fuse itself, and can they be safely removed to release the fuse holder from the board?

At the moment the electric oven and hob are fed from a 30 amp fuse using what I would call a thick cable.

I have found that MK sell a consumer unit populated with RCBOs. This has two 32A RCBOs presumably for two ring mains and one 40A RCBO which I assume is intended for an oven and hob (cooker).

If I want to use a 40A RCBO what is the minimum size of cable I need to have to be sure that it is good for the 40A.

[GB]

Even if you remove the fuse, one end of the fuse holder is still going to be live.

[harry]

Cooker is usually 32amp. (6mm cable.)

40amp is intended for shower.

If you don't know this, best leave mains incomer alone. Illegal to mess with it anyway. You would have to remove elect. company seals. And as the poster says, other end of fuse will remain alive.

[Tim Watts]

Be wary. If you have an old paper insulated supply cable, these really do not like being moved (brittle with age as the oil drains down the cable).

Can you not cut it in situ with a Fein type tool or a hand saw running almost flat?

Try this - and feel free to ask if not sure afterwards:

[Andy Burns]

Yes, I wouldn't fancy poking a screwdriver in there to release the fuse-holder from the board!

[tabbypurr]

But it sounds like you don't know what you're doing.

NT

[ARW]

Some photos of ones I have taken partly to bits are here.

[Michael Chare]

Not being a fan of showers, the power consumption of electrically heated showers is not a subject that interest me.

It is a pity that MK don't sell a RCBO populated CU that has 3 32A units.

Indeed, but if the cables from the meter to a new CU are to short I am going to have to break the seals anyway. I suspect the meter is due for a change.

[Michael Chare]

The property was built in the 70s

I suppose I could do what I need with a chisel, but it will be obvious and not such a neat job!

Yes, that helps, thank you. Looks like can't use a 40A RCBO

[John Rumm]

Do you actually need to remove it, or could you cut it where it is? (Multimaster, jigsaw, reciprocating saw etc)

Possibly, but it depends on the type of fuse, of which there are many types. You would need to assume you will be working live if doing this, and on the unfused side of the supply as well. So only do this if you are comfortable with what you need to do and how to operate safely.

Also see the comments here about old metal clad incomers:

Again, really depends on the type of holder.

40A is probably overkill for most domestic cookers.

See examples in:

Chapter and verse:

[Tim Watts]

I'd buy a Fein type tool (there are other cheaper versions) for a job like this long before I'd consider interfering with the service head.

[Brian Gaff]

I thought the whole idea was to stop tampering and indeed keep the user safe. I think if one has to ask such questions like how thick the wire needs to be, you will in the end need a proper electrician to do whatever it is you are doing. Most of us are OK on wiring up some lights or sockets, but even when I could see I treated stuff at this end of the supply with a wide berth.

I think its only Canherbis growers who attempt such work themselves. Brian

[spuorgelgoog]

Not *safely*, no. You will be working live and should have the appropriate arc-resistant PPE.

Details for removing cutouts are handily enough given here

Owain

[Michael Chare]

It is hard to understand that tool from looking at the pictures on their website, but after watching the U-Tube videos I can see why I might buy one! Thank you.

[Tim Lamb]

In message , Tim Watts writes

I have found a huge difference in performance between blue (good) and green (poor) versions from Bosch.

Overshort cables between the meter and the consumer board can be overcome using service connector blocks. (Henley etc.)

Seriously, this is a job for a competent person.

>

[Andy Burns]

Rather than hacking it off freehand, I'd screw a strip of wood onto the bit you're cutting off, and use that as a guide for the blade, or it'll wander ...

[spuorgelgoog]

Yes, nicking the main incomer cable could be a trifle inconvenient.

Owain

[Rob Graham]

I think like others here that there is sufficient information given for the advise of getting a qualified person to undertake this is justified.

The OP isn't aware that the fuse holder will remain live; doesn't know about Henley blocks doesn't know what the Fein type multi-tool is when they've been on the market for 30+ years.

Dabbling in the meter box is something that near enough all of us here would do with a degree of extreme wariness.

[Tim Watts]

Well, essentially, as you may have seen in the vids, it's really good at plunge cutting with finesse. It'll not be quick work if you have to take a strip off a 2' wide board, but it won't be too bad and it will not disturb the equipment like hitting a chisel would.

[Capitol]

I suspect it depends on age. My old Bosch green tools are still running 40 years on, with only a couple of new parts between them. They've built 4 extensions so far.