relative merits of constructional approaches to new fitted wardrobe

Hi all We have a fairly crude 70's style wardrobe fitted inside a large alcove in the 'master bedroom'. This needs replacing; I'd live to do it myself [*] but sufficient time & opportunity not being available I have got a couple of local men in to spec the job.

The current construction, using 3x2 timber to make a frame, and thick (40mm?) inset door panels, can be seen in some photos below. The frame is built directly into the wall...

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Both of the guys I have asked to view and quote seem seem decent and have suggested a few possibilities; I am trying to find a basis to choose between them. The main difference seems to be the approach to construction.

The first does what I'd call a proper carpentry job; from what I can tell he constructs a piece/pieces of furniture of the exact shape required, give or take, then 'slides' it into the space, screws to the wall (via padding pieces, I think, and finishes. He uses standard butt hinges, with the doors (eg. 18mm MDF) fitted into the carcass.

The second builds the wardrobe in place, from what I can tell; a timber frame similar to the current arrangement, but perhaps less hefty, and then the doors are laid 'onset'(?); I think he uses Blum-type hinges similar to kitchen cupboards.

I suppose my preference would be for the former as a slightly classier job; but the trouble is that it would seem to lose a bit of depth from the alcove. This is already a bit on the shallow side for a wardrobe (around

52cm front-to-back for clothes), and although we can bring the front out a whisker, I'm concerned that the thickness of a proper back (the back of the current wardrobe is plaster!) together with the gap between that and the wall will reduce the depth even further.

The second method would seem to give a bit more depth, but I wonder slightly about the constructional method, and whether there are any downsides that I don't know about. I'd be interested to know of any thoughts on the relative merits of these approaches.

Thanks a lot jon N

[*] Obligatory DIY part - I will be doing most of the rest of the refurb; any wardrobe painting necessary, fitting new radiator, making floorboards good, fitting carpet grippers & underlay etc. etc. ;-)
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The Night Tripper
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Looking at the pics and reading your description, especially of the lack of internal depth involved, I wonder what the /need/ actually is?

- is it for something that looks modern/trendy?

- is it for more versatile storage?

I suspect that what you have now, hanging space x 2, a dressing table, and some overhead cupboards, is likely to be recreated in pretty much the same format - you've no spare space at all...

The approaches you've outlined sound to me as if at least the outside framework, and maybe more internal elements, will be permanent. I'd be more inclined to make it as easy as possible to move things inside the cupboards around - eg be able to vary shelf positions. For example if the bedroom were being used just by one person, how easy would it be to change a hanging space to some other use?

At the moment you have 9 fixed-size doors. You couldn't change the places of the 'shelves' that are at the top of the hanging sections because the doors are made to fit below & above. If you do the same in the new unit, you'll have the same restriction. Laying taller doors over the whole frame allows the inside layout to vary.

While I can understand people not liking aspects of eg IKEA's PAX wardrobe range, I'm well-impressed by the range and versatility of the components they provide for placing inside their units. I've a more-complicated than yours wardrobes/storage/desk area in 2 bedrooms that needs built sometime, and I'm considering using the insides of IKEA wardrobes for versatility even though the carcass/framework aspect will need substantial 'surgery' to make it fit the irregular alcoves I have.

That's maybe a bit beefy, unless you're keeping lead weights in the upper cupboards?

One obvious advantage of that is that if any aspect of the build needs adapted it can be done as he goes along... but it may be messier, slower etc on-site.

Kitchen cupboard hinges might allow a door to open wider and/or completely get out of the line of the framework - maybe useful if any of the hanging spaces have drawers inside them.

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