Ingenious; thanks, John.
Ingenious; thanks, John.
It makes perfect sense, thanks, and I've seen that system in use. In fact, I toyed briefly with the idea of adding two strips of wood to the rails and creating something similar, but the (supposed) simplicity of simply angling the existing holes won.
Having seen your photos, it would be harder (although not impossible) to use. You would need to drill your holes, and then cut the infill through each hole, so you have a half round on each side.
Having seen your photos, it would be harder (although not impossible) to use. You would need to drill your holes, and then cut the infill through each hole, so you have a half round on each side.
John,
You're quite right: in the end it was clear that re-drilling the existing holes at an angle was the most straightforward way to go. I miscalculated the depth of a couple of them in the lower rail, as became clear on a test assembly, but that was easily rectified by simply drilling them out a little deeper. When the weather permits, I'll do exactly the same on the sloping section of the other side of the steps.
Forstner bit will do the job. Then fill existing holes if necessary
Thanks, and to everyone else for the thoughts and advice. In the end I drilled the holes by hand and by eye, using a conventional (albeit reduced-shank) bit and holding the rails at the necessary angle in the jaws of my trusty Workmate.
Following a trial assembly I found I had to re-drill the holes in the underside of the upper rail oversize (18 rather than 17mm) to allow a bit of wiggle room. Not a bad result, though some filling will be needed. I'm moderately pleased with the job.
Even after dropping the sloping section of the railings a little, the gap between the bottom edge of the lower rail and the steps doesn't in places meet the 100mm maximum gap requirement of the regs, I wasn't expecting that, but a 100mm diameter sphere (courtesy of eBay) is notably smaller than I'd visualised.
I might have to add a length of timber to the underside of the bottom railings, even if only temporarily.
That is why you normally fill that in or dont have a rail, but have the uprights going into the steps themselves. That means you have to have the gap some exact divisor of the tread depth tho...
Yes, I did consider that, but working out not only the spacing but also the fixings for the bottom of the spindles seemed rather more effort than it was worth, especially given that the kits I had included bottom rails. I have enough spare lengths of rail to double up the depth of the bottom ones, and while it won't look ideal it also won't be horribly unsightly.
I have a feeling that adding a new piece of rail will look better than a strip of timber - for one thing, the finish on the rails, whatever it is, means that they don't match plain pine, or even pine painted with clear wood treatment. But I'll try clamping a piece of plain wood in position to see the effect.
Actually, the colour might not be a vital concern. It's possible - though I'm certainly not saying it's definite - that whatever I do to meet the regs might not prove to be permanent.
That would be tricky, given the general construction, but not impossible.
Spot-on, unfortunately.
Thanks for the thoughts.
TNP has a vested interest in the company that markets car body filler.
just saying ...
(allegedly)
:-)
No way. Bad company to invest in.
My thought exactly. The weather wasn't good enough to try it today, but as soon as I can I'll give it a go.
I really can't fault your reasoning there.
Thanks for the thoughts.
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