Redrilling existing holes in timber at a different angle

[Jimk]

Yes spot on :-)

[Jimk]

You have sussed to maintain rail height you need longer rails on the sloped sections haven't you?

[Jimk]

No it's fine. I have some.

[Jimk]

I'd favour a horizontal jig. How much length of rail would you handle in a pillar drill?

[Jimk]

Spindles not "rails"..

[Jimk]

Even so to maintain the height of the sloped handrail sections the spindles need to be longer than the spindles on horizontal handrail sections... unless you mount the sloped section spindles at the same 90deg to the top & bottom rails...

[Jimk]

I spose as long as they meet any regs you might choose to meet all will be well.

Bit of tape around your drill bit?

[Jimk]

Precisement

[Jimk]

That doesn't look half bad Bert :-)

Looking at the pic, you might even get away with lowering the sloped section a tad, using the post to disguise the transition more evenly?

[Jimk]

Fair enough :-)

My thought re position of sloping bit was... as there's a chunky post in between the horizontal & sloped sections, the sloped section could be put a little lower so that, to the eye, the transition from sloped to horizontal appears to happen *within* the post...

[Jimk]

In the photo that came along afterwards ?

[Jimk]

Smart :-)

[Jimk]

"Stairs, ladders and ramps K1. Stairs, ladders and ramps shall be so designed, constructed and installed as to be safe for people moving between different levels in or about the building"

[Jimk]

Can you just add a strip of timber under the current rail to meet the 100mm rule? Rather than a whole section of rail...

Or possibly cut triangular infill pieces or even "toeboards" of some sort to fix to the ends of the treads?

[Jimk]

Also, is that eBay sphere really 100mm....?

[Jimk]

If you fixed the extra *but much thinner section* timbers under the bottom rails & make them essentially invisible, would they still meet the 100mm rule?

Spose it all depends just how much bigger than 100mm the gaps are...

[Bert Coules]

I have some railings kits, picked up cheaply in a DIY shed sale: horizontal softwood rails pre-drilled for tubular metal spindles. They go together very nicely when fitted on the level, but I'd like to use them also on some steps, which will mean re-drilling the 17mm diameter spindle-holes at an angle.

I think I'm going to have to rig up some sort of jig to ensure that the new holes are at a consistent angle, but I suspect that asking a bit to bite accurately not only at an angle but also into an existing hole is likely to prove tricky. Any tips on doing this? Many thanks.

[The Natural Philosopher]

Fill the holes with car body filler

[Bert Coules]

Now that's an approach I hadn't thought of, so thanks. Is it essential to use car body filler? Would some sort of wood filler also work?

[Chris Hogg]

Wooden dowels. You may not find the exact size, but slightly undersize and plenty of CBF or other filler/adhesive should do.