You have to start early. In the hot weather, this is a great advantage! Be careful not to let the paint run into the sliding joints (don't put too much on) or it will stick your windows up, oil or water-based. Let the windows dry through the day, you can close them gently and open them again next day for glossing. You may need to plan a "rota".
Good God. Someone is really ham-fisted painting! A scraper will whizz that off in a trice. To paint close to glass, the angle at which you hold the brush is all-important, and somewhat counter-intuitive. Hold the handle of the brush close to the glass at a slight angle to it, rather than pointing the bristles at the glass and goint along almost perpendicular.
[ broken sash-cords ]
Use good-quality sash cord when you replace them, should last a *long* time! Don't get paint on the sash cords.
[ DG units ]
You *can* get 12mm - 4-4-4 instead of 4-6-4.
If the boxes are still there, you should be safe from the bloody pen-pushers. A local joinery firm should be able to make to measure.
Because, with single glazing, condensation runs through any small gaps at the meeting and botom rail. These gaps are not usu. significant, anyway. Mighton is good for draughtproofing. If you have someone make up sash windows complete, D/G, they should be able to use similar products & the thing will still come out cheaper than PVC.
N.B. to prevent condensation soaking collecting on the meeting rail, lay a strip of cotton material along to wick off the moisture & avoid it soaking into the sash where pooled.
Oh! I was using a lump hammer and chisel to take off the wallpaper, and my hand slipped. And again. And again.....
No, it doesn't. The mail account that I'm using to post via a mail2news gateway does that. I can't help it, it's not my software. I wish I could!
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