I bought the sealer to coat a Moroccan tile-topped table. I bought
> Thinners to clean the brush. I've got nearly full pots of both left.
> Where else can I use it? (I asked bloke in shop where I bought
> Thinners and he had no idea :-( )
Cellulose thinners is an excellent cleaning solvent - it will remove most things. But only really safe on metal, etc, as it can dissolve some plastics, and of course some paint.
Cellulose is great for sealing balsa wood planes..
Actually its not bad on all wood as a primer sealer. Bsiaclly its a smelly but pnetrating and fast drying semipermeable layer.
You can use it to prepare wood for spraying too - with celluose sprays (try Halfords) You can mix it with baby powder to mkae a filler/primer as well that bulds up fast and sands well to an ultra smoth finish.
The thinnres is one of teh best ways to destroy ploystyrene known to man or alien. If ou careve foam to shape and mould galss resin or pa;[ier mache around it, you can get teh styrene out afterwds by wshing it with the thiners.
Its also a good paint brush cleaner.
In article , snipped-for-privacy@b.c says... snip
I always thought so till I dunked a whole brush into it one day and it melted the handle.
Its a bit expensive as brush cleanet IMHO
Paul Mc Cann
Not if you buy a 5 litre can of 'cooking' thinners (used for gun cleaning) from your local car body paint supplier - should cost about 5 quid. 'Fast' thinners used for the top coat costs more.
For you car DIY types, it's excellent for removing petrol 'varnish' from carbs or fuel injection parts, and much cheaper than the aerosols sold for the purpose.
Yes, but don't buy the cheapest 'Gun Wash' thinners as there is sometimes a high water content that can remain longer than the cellulose thinner IYSWIM.
Use wooden ones
Not if you have gallons lying around doing nothing, which the OP has.
It'll probably still take the paint off the handle.
Too late now, I suppose, but it would probably have worked out cheaper to have simply sacrificed the brush rather than spend a lot on a tin of specialist "brush cleaners". I find Polycell's brush cleaner will break down most things apart from the likes of Hammerite, so that's always worth a try before slinging the brush. One problem with some thinners is that that is all they do - thin. There will still be residue in the brush, not always easily taken out with hot soapy water. Always brush out as much of the paint/lacquer as possible onto newspaper or similar, before cleaning.
As for what you have left, see other suggestions. Model makers probably don't have much call for cellulose products any more. I'd hang onto them in case the finish starts to craze and has to be re-applied. Cellulose seems a slightly strange choice for (ceramic?) tiles, but I'm no expert.
Some of us do.
Its still the classiest finsih available for wood.
Use unpainted handles :-)
Ah, you're a real model maker, not a toy plane enthusiast then :-) Plastic in its many forms seems to have taken over as the material of choice for both construction and finish.
Still cover up the plastic and spary cellulose on it.
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