Re: Calling router experts (that's rowter not rooter ...)



You can do it with a router with a fence. Or with a circular saw with a fence. Or with an electric plane with a fence. The latter I would say was best. Saves having to buy special bits which only cut a particular size.
It's easiest to form this sort of thing on the edge of a much wider bit of wood and then cut it off afterwards. Stops the wood from deflecting under load whilst being machined.
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Sort of thing you could do with a circular saw?
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*Could it be that "I do " is the longest sentence? *

Dave Plowman snipped-for-privacy@davenoise.co.uk London SW
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With a couple of routers, a router table, lots of bits and a circular saw available I'd probably choose a table saw before any of the others.
But if you supplied the dimensions of your finished item and if you already have the raw material it would enable the advice to be something a bit better than a total stab in the dark.
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On 01/08/2014 17:53, The Other Mike wrote:

+1. Five minute job on a sawbench. Just watch the offcut doesn't fly back and hit you in the midriff though
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You need a saw with no riving knife and a small bull nose rebate plane to tidy up the undercutting but just how I would do it:-)
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Tim Lamb

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On 01/08/2014 21:13, Tim Lamb wrote:

No need to remove the riving knife for a non through cut unless yours also supports the blade guard.
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Cheers,

John.
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wrote:

That was my concern hence preferring the table saw. Freehand working or even with a guide on something too thin or narrow to hold, already of the finished length, or where you need to preserve the bottom face can make things a lot more complicated. With a router mat holding relatively small section material is eased but still not 100% issue free ( a big router making things far worse IMHO). On a shiny kitchen / workshop worktop I can see four letter words flying and maybe bits of wood.
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