Rattling Fence Panels

I always thought that a wedge was hammered in the top of the slot. When it loosens off, you tap it in a bit more.

"BigWallop" wrote

Hi BigWallop

Yes that would certainly be an improvement, but I was after the ever-elusive fit-and-forget solution, if there is such a thing.

Phil

I made some 'springs' from stainless steel strapping band (1/2" wide) to wedge the panels in place. This seems to work and is inobtrusive. Anything similar should work.

In fact I think that rubber wedges used to be made some time ago especially for rattly sash windows. If you could use something like that you could just bash them in and they should be fairly permanent (until the rubber perishes).

Mastic?

Put a screw through them.

Problem is the tolerance to which a panel is made & shrinkage. If you measure a fench panel they are as much as +/- half an inch and generally out of square.

Long wooden wedge is what I use, hammered in tight.

"The Medway Handyman" wrote

Dave

Do you fit the wedges down the ends of the panel (ie at the back of the fence post slot) or to inside face of the panel (ie to one side of the fence post slot)? If you do the former, I would expect the panel to be inclined to bow along its length.

Phil

Sorry to but in part way through the thread but....

Some of my panels were just too narrow as well as offering a tapered gap with reference to the groove in the concrete posts I measured the size of the gap and cut a tapered batten to nearly fill the gap but not to put any pressure on the panel. Diagonal screws/nails fix this to the panel after fitting in between the posts. If you are still plagued with rattles then a wedge between the edge of the channel and the face of the panel is the way to go.

HTH

Bob

Down the ends of the panel, don't hammer them in far enough to bow the panel, just stop it moving.

These are what you want to check out

Its a lot cheaper to put some wood screws through the ends of the panel at an angle so they grip the inside of the slot on the other side.