R. Cott. 12

Makes sense.

Cheers, T i m

Reply to
T i m
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In message , Mike Tomlinson writes

OK Mike. I have 100m of Cat 6 ordered and will lay in runs from the telephone intake point to likely outlet needs. From a point of near ignorance, what terminations are used?

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Reply to
Tim Lamb

As an aside, is that the best place to have the centre of your wiring? Eg, if it's in the hall, so you want the router, possibly an Ethernet switch and all the cables in the hall by your front door? An alternative is you can put all your 'comms' in a cupboard somewhere and then just run a cable or two between where the router might sit (say a couple of places) and said comms space or get the BT line / Cable fed into there as well.

I have done just that with / for several people and it worked out very well.

Although many people crimp plugs directly to the ends of the cable, said cable should be solid copper (not stranded) and so is *supposed* to be punched-down into a box ('Krone') or patch panel, and from there you would take flexible cable to your router / switch / PC etc.

You can get SOHO RJ45 patch panels (make sure they are for Cat6) and surface mount or flush, single or double RJ45 wall boxes

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and although you can get disposable punch down tools, proper ones are pretty cheap.

If you insist on putting crimp-on RJ45 connectors on the end of solid cables I believe you can get some plugs that are suited to that (but I prefer to do it properly). ;-)

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You will also need a crimp tool of course.

Plus, it's quite easy to arrange and connect the wires correctly in the punch-down connectors and easier to buy patch cables for the ends from the likes of eBay than making them!

Cheers, T i m

p.s. Links offered as examples of the gear used, not as a suggestion as to where to get them etc.

Reply to
T i m

You terminate into standard back boxes with (twin) RJ45 plates on them that you punch down the CAT 5 onto with a krone type tool.

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At the hub end, you probably need a patch panel which is a LOT of RJ45s on a single (19" rack) mount panel.

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A gigabit switch and some ethernet patch cables of pretty colours completes the job. Wire the router up to the switch, and the switch to the patch panel and Ethernet is available wherever there is a socket.

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

Have a look at which has lots of good advice from John Rumm *and* pretty pictures.

But don't worry if your wiring isn't as tidy as John shows in the rear of the patch panel: IME it still works if it looks like a des. res. for the mice :)

Reply to
Robin

Depends how much you are changing it. Prolly OK in a domestic setting, but having to deal with a spaghetti of hundreds of cable can be a nightmare. Keep it tidy.

Also the article doesn't appear to mention labelling the cables. Always label both ends of each cable so that, having pulled them, you're not sat there wondering which one you've got hold of. The cable should have the same label at each end.

Reply to
Tim Streater

In message , T i m writes

The intake point, router and my PC will all be in the study which has a window overlooking the farmyard. Open Reach strongly advised keeping the intake/router cable short. (We have had the discussion on negligible effect:-)

OK Ta.

Reply to
Tim Lamb

Hmm.. Wife will use Ethernet for her static laptop but the rest of the family expect wi-fi

Reply to
Tim Lamb

Crumbs. I see the points about running lots of cable for future need!

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Reply to
Tim Lamb

OTOH if the labels fall off, dont fret. Simply short two wires together at the far end, and then check continuity on each cable at the hub end in turn...

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

For a small number of cables I have found simple Biro / CD marker pen gives sufficiently good results and is less likely to get pulled off than a weak label (or one where the glue dries up in time) or something that gets caught up when being pulled though etc (like some of the cable-tie type markers)). I also often put one mark near the end and another a bit further along, in case the end gets trimmed off (doh). ;-)

Worst comes to the worst (no marking or test gear) you can often work out what goes where just using the length markers (as no two cables are likely to have the same range). Made easier by the cables all being laid in off the roll in the same direction. ;-)

Cheers, T i m

Reply to
T i m

Well attach wifi repeaters to the ends of the ethernet to punch through the corrugated iron walls of yer barn...

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

Fair enough. My comment was based on the OP being possibly never having wired a Krone before and being worried if it he didn't get every wire just the right length from the start.

It does have "Drag out a pair of cables to the length of your longest pair in the loom. Then tape them together at intervals of every metre or so, plus at each end. Finally use a permanent marker or some other system to label each end."

Reply to
Robin

I think I met a slightly more sensible Openreach engineer, who said that extending from the master socket to the router would be fine *providing* it was done in Cat5/6 cable. So I extended the split outputs of the master socket (phones and internet) via a double wall socket by the BT socket, about 15M of cat 5e cable, and a patch panel, and thence to the router, and there is no visible performance difference to having the router right next to the master socket. It also puts the router in the centre of the house at ceiling level, which helps with wi-fi coverage.

Are you going to use all these new cables for wired phones too? Or are wired phones so last century!

Charles F

Reply to
Charles F

Excellent advice. I use a Brother labelmaker - tapes are available in a range of colours and widths.

Reply to
S Viemeister

Yes. I'm just describing worst case type of stuff. Then you back off from that as appropriate.

Ah, thanks. I see that now.

Reply to
Tim Streater

I learnt the hard way. :-)

Reply to
Tim Streater

Was the right answer. ;-)

Well, I'm not sure if the 'std' twisted pair telephone cable is Cat5 or whatever but as long as you extend it the last few meters using something suitable (eg, not alarm wire) then it shouldn't have much impact over the several km it has already taken to get to you. ;-)

Cheers, T i m

Reply to
T i m

Although indoors is a pretty noisy environment electrically, so probably worth using reasonable cable even if only a few metres.

My master socket is less than 1 metre from the router, so I use the cable that came with the router!

Reply to
Bob Eager

Quite. I have replaced (mainly in the early days) quite a few telephone extension cables (used to put the router somewhere more convenient (and even with dial-up modems before that)) with twisted pair cables and it can make a big difference.

Yeah, handy that. ;-)

I'm on cable so just ran some CT100 in myself so they (CableTel at the time > NTL > VM) just connected into that.

I use my VM supplied WiFi router as just a cable modem and have my main router elsewhere in any case (and next to my fully occupied 16 port Gb switch). ;-)

Talking of cable, initially this place had Thin Ethernet (the 4Mb/s Token ring, AppleTalk and ArcNet was only in my workshop ) then Cat3 and some of that is still in use. ;-)

Cheers, T i m

Reply to
T i m

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