Are the reinforcing sleeves for the inside of plasic pipe ends interchangable? I fitted some Hep2O at the weekend using some metal sleeves which seemed a little slack in the pipe bore. I have a bit more to do, but have plastic sleeves left.
The Hep2O already fitted isn't leaking and I have a bit more confidence in the metal sleeves, but should I be using either plastic or metal for specific applications or with certain manufacturer's pipe?
The short version is that he attempted to do some plastic plumbing work for a friend and used a hacksaw to cut the tube. The instructions from all manufacturers say not to use a hacksaw but a pipe slicer in order to get a clean and square edge. These tools are remarkably inexpensive but our friend new better.
The inevitable happened - the O-ring was pushed out of place and on turning the water back on of course it pissed everywhere, probably leading to much embarassment since he will have undoubtedly represented himself as a "professional".
Rather than keeping it quiet, he then proceeded to tell the group about it, claiming that it was bad design and manufacturing by John Guest, the manufacturers of Speedfit.
Despite the folly of this enterprise, he then quoted some remarks from one manufacturer's technical department to the effect that the inventive will find alternative ways to the proper tool for cutting the tube. They were being diplomatic of course, and certainly not recommending bodging with hacksaws, but IMM took this as being endorsement.
John Rumm published a photo on his web site, but I can't find it now.....
It seems that people in this NG, both part time and professional (as in properly professional) who have used plastic plumbing properly (alliteration excepted) have not had these kind of problems. Along a similar track, only one person seems to have had success with magnetic water conditioners.......
In the course of your explanation, you have inadvertently clarified one of those nagging questions. Why is it so important to have a square cut on plastic pipe? So that as the pipe is inserted, it contacts the O ring on the full circumference and is therefore less likely to displace said O ring.
I bought some purpose made pipe cutters for plastic some time ago. Just like big secateurs (sp?) really. They can tend to oval the pipe a bit but there is nack to rotating the pipe as you cut which all but eliminates this. Presumably you are advocating the use of a pipe slice, as used for copper.
I suspect that that is one reason, and another that the connection is evenly home into the fitting. Normally the O rings have a little silicone grease on them as well.
Yes that is one way. Another is to take out the blade and sharpen it. Generally they are quite blunt.
I bought a slightly chunkier version which has a ratchet and is sharp as well. This is for when I am installing nylon airline which is slightly tougher than water pipe but it cuts the latter in quite large sizes as well.
I have found the John Guest plastic pipe cutters to be better than the Hep ones. You certainly need the little twist as you cut on 22mm barrier pipe.
Only in an emergency ie a leak and you have not got the proper cutters with you. A normal pipe slice will cut plastic pipe but it needs the insert in the pipe to make the cut.
On Tue, 24 Apr 2007 14:47:50 +0100, "TheScullster" mused:
Some of those ratchet secateur doobries have a flat blade wich tends to oval the pipe. I've seen some which have a pointed blade which tends to give a squarer, cleanar cut (think my Hilmor ones have this). Once they start to go blunt though, they're useless and flatten the pipe\cut it off square.
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