Toilet leaking from flush pipe

My toilet was leaking slightly from where the flush pipe goes into it whenever we flushed the toilet.

I renewed the plastic bung that the pipe goes through and also the pipe as it looked a little short to me.

It is still leaking!

There is only the pipe going through the plastic bung that fits into the hole at the rear of the toilet. No washer or seal of any kind.

Should there be something else there to stop the leak?

Steve...

Reply to
dog-man
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Those polythene "bungs" are rubbish compared to the older rubber sleeve-type. Sanitary silicone is the usual fix, but I've had it not work first time.

Reply to
newshound

Check first.

Is the leak coming from the flushpipe entry to the pan?

Have a look at the flushpipe exit from the cistern, it can very often be a leak from the back of it running down makes it look to be leaking from the pan end.

If all is ok there then it could be that the flushpipe could now be too long or the cistern outlet is off centre from the pan connection.

Reply to
Heliotrope Smith

Definately coming from flushpipe entry to pan!

Reply to
dog-man

I will use some silicone sealant tomorrow, but that will need time to dry, so the toilet will be out of use for some time!

No probs as we have another one.

Reply to
dog-man

Ditto here, Fill the whole bung with silicone, ram it in, add more around where the pipe fits, wipe off excess with white spirit and wait

24 hrs.

Then work out where its still leaking and inject more gooey stuff.

In the end the leak will be found. THE LEAK WILL BE FOUND!!

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

Plumbers Mait is made for the job.

Reply to
The Medway Handyman

Mine too but a good dollop of silicone sealant has cured it. You need to get everything completely dry and clean though and leave the silicone for several hours to set. Once it has it remains flexible enough to resist any movement in the components and should be a long lasting cure.

Reply to
Dave Baker

Fernox LS-X worked for me. It has the advantage over normal silicone that the surfaces don't need to be dry.

Reply to
LSR

Is there a poor moulding of the china?

Reply to
John

"dog-man" wrote

I have had a similar experience. There appear to be two "types" of seal - one is a slightly more rigid affair with large sealing fins (this is the type I had leak) - the other is more of a bung which fits far more snuggly both to the pipe and to the bore of the flush pipe entry. I have used the bung-type twice without problem. As another poster has noted, there may be a ridge or similar in the bore of the flush pipe entry which is allowing water to track past the seal you are using.

HTH

Phil

Reply to
TheScullster

I popped into Focus DIY today to get a few things and saw a rubberish bung for this very job!

It looks like rubber and feels like rubber, but you never know these days.

Anyway, it looks like it might well provide a better seal. I have not noticed any irregularity in the surface of the toilet but I will have a closer look.

Steve............

Reply to
dog-man

No, if the surfaces are clean and the flush pipe goes into the bung far enough (and straight) it should seal OK, though sometimes the hole in the pan is uneven and can cause problems sealing. Plumber's Mait is the traditional stuff for dealing with problems like this, and silicone is the bodger's favourite :-|. If I'm in bodger mode I use Toolstation's stixall which is like silicone but sticks to wet surfaces too. I think it's a "Sticks Like Sh*t" knock-off.

Reply to
John Stumbles

In article , dog-man writes

Umm.. Lots of good advice from others but... *looks a little short* may be the cause.

My daughter had a similar problem. In order to create an inch or two extra space in a microscopic toilet the plumber had fitted the pan too close to the rear wall. The consequence was that the plastic bung was being distorted by trying to seal on a section of pipe which was neither round or parallel to the pan.

regards

Reply to
Tim Lamb

By far enough, do you mean as far as you can push it? I'm about to install a cistern to marry up with one of the old 2 part WC bowls where the soil pipe is straight down rather than out the back (so changing it would be a pain). I can see the cistern has to be positioned accurately in terms of height for the flush pipe to be straight but I wonder how much leeway there is in the length. Is it usual to shorten the pipe if the cistern is closer to the WC? I'm trying to gain a couple of inches behind the new cistern to put some insulation on the wall, which I reckon I can get with a slimline plastic job.

Reply to
Stuart Noble

I mean far enough that it doesn't leak :-)

Reply to
John Stumbles

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