Planing a door



you
Nope,doesn't say it here as nothing happens.
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George wrote:

Actually I see "Butt Hinge C/wise 75mm Pk2" in IE7 - but nothing in Firefox.
--
Rod

Hypothyroidism is a seriously debilitating condition with an insidious
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have
Firefox.
What are you taking? its exactly the same layout as it is in both browsers. lol
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George wrote:

But I get a tooltip text box appear in IE showing the alternative text for the image. The page does look pretty much identical nin either browser.
Go to Firefox. Use View > Page Source. You can then see:
img class="LargeProductImage" name="LargeProdImage" width="200" height="200" src="/sfd/i/cat/59/p1376759_l.jpg"     alt="Butt Hinge C/wise 75mm Pk2" />
--
Rod

Hypothyroidism is a seriously debilitating condition with an insidious
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browser.
/takes shovel off Rod.
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On Sun, 08 Jun 2008 13:06:26 +0100, Rod wrote:

Only non-standard browsers pop up "alt" text. A W3C compliant browser only pops up "title" text. "alt" is reserved for a textual description of the image and is shown when the image doesn't load, for those that have images turned off or to aid those using a screen reader.
--
Cheers
Dave.




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On 2008-06-07 22:22:07 +0100, "Samantha Booth"

You

He confuses inches and millimetres as it is....
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Samantha Booth wrote:

If the rise is for the room that has the carpet, them this is not your answer. The rise will not meet the maximum until the door is at 90 degrees from the wall. At closure, the door will be at its lowest point and will not rise until it is at 90 % to the wall.
Dave
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says...

You will get some rubbing initially, but it should have risen above the pile when it is part-way open and be completely clear when 90degrees.
Don't forget that they will typically require the removal of the top corner of the door - the last part of the door to leave the frame. As the door opens it rises so closing the gap between door and frame at the top. When it is half open, the gap has gone and hence the need to chamfer the top inner corner on the hinge side.
--
John W
To mail me replace the obvious with co.uk twice
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On 06/06/2008 21:34 Samantha Booth wrote:

I think you'll do a faster, and better job if you got yourself a mains plane rather than the battery. It may also be worthwhile using a saw (circular or hand) to take off the first 10-12mm. If you use a circular saw take care not to mark the face of the door as the sole-plate of the saw travels across it.
Draw pencil lines on each of the door's faces to mark how much to take off, work from the edges inwards (unless you want to knock splinters off the door edges) and use a carpenter's square to check how square and flat the edge is as you go along: it'll almost certainly be convex after a couple of runs with the plane.
All the above still fresh in my mind after replacing all 18 internal doors last year!
Best of luck.
--
F



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Forgot to say....
There were three CS I liked. First DeWalt-mains powered, secondly Makita Mains, thirdly was a evolution. He said this will cut metal, nails screws etc no problem so if I hit one on the door its not a problem. He did say a CS wouldnt be any god as the cut will be terribly jagged and would look bad with a cs.?????
If it did is there any kind of trim I can buy, or plastic cover that goes on the bottom, getting worried not I have bought the wrond tool.
Anyone know if B&Q will take it back unused??? but opened
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bad
on
Shouldn't be a problem exchanging it for the CS and no doubt you'll be paying a bit extra towards the CS?
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Samantha Booth wrote: <SNIP>

You can't buy a sawboard, but you can make one in 5 mins. I carry three different lenghts on the van.
Chances if hitting a nail in a new cheap door is rare, if you did, it would be an 18g brad & a TCT blade/you wont even notice. There are relatively few in a new door anyway.
A sawbord will change your life! :-)
--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
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The Medway Handyman wrote:

I must admit that after that link you posted, I am looking at making at least one for myself...
As I also have a small table saw, it should be a doddle..
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Paul Matthews
snipped-for-privacy@cattytown.me.uk
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Paul Matthews wrote:

I make mine from a strip of 6mm ply about 150mm wide for the guide and 4mm ply for the base. Glue liberally, screw through from the 4mm into the 6mm, remove screws when glue dry. Just make sure you clean the glue off properly.
________________ ____________________________________ ____________________________________
This makes a board rigid enough to use but you only lose up to a max 6mm depth of cut. In fact the body of my Makita 5604R just clears the 6mm guide so I don't lose any DOC.
Brilliant things, I don't leave home without one :-)
--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
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The Medway Handyman wrote:

I made mine out of a strip of engineered wood (or is it bamboo?) flooring for the guide. Lovely clean, smooth, lacquered edges already. Tough. (Scrap section at Wickes.)
--
Rod

Hypothyroidism is a seriously debilitating condition with an insidious
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Sorry MH I am struggling with this one. I get a 3 or 4 foot board 150m wide 6mm deep, then glue 4mm board to it, how wide?then the cs sits on the bottom piece using the side of it as a guide?
Having a blonde moment here lol
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Correct. The magic bit is you then cut the lower board to exactly the correct width when you first run the saw over the top of the lower board, using the edge of the upper board as a guide. That's it. Custom sawboard made.
For ever after, all you then have to do is slap your sawboard down with that edge you just cut on your lower board exactly aligned with wherever you want to cut through on the the job you're doing (the line you want to trim to on your doors in your case).
Dimensions on the sawboard are unimportant, apart from the lower board area being wider than the base of your circular saw for when you do that first "cut to size" to make a sawboard exactly matching your saw.
Explanation with diagrams:
http://members.aol.com/woodmiser1/sawbd.htm
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snipped-for-privacy@gglz.com wrote:

As Dom said, its self making. As long as the bottom board is wider than the base of your CS.
Did you get the Aldi link Sam?
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Dave - The Medway Handyman
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wide
bottom
Sammy Make the sawboard as in the link provided.
Take the door on its flat,draw a pencil line of the amount of wood you need to take off across the door. Place the sawboards edge level with that line and clamp the sawboard to the door. Now just use the sawboards top guide with the CS and you will get a perfect cut line.
The links diagram is self explanetry if you just carefully read and look slowly.
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