Carpet was fitted today and I need to trim about 15mil from the bottom of
the bedroom doors, 3 of them. I bought a planer (Ryobi) battery powered on
the recommendation of B&Q. He said a circular saw would shred the door as
its hollow, also looks and feels like an office door. Shiny brown, highly
Any tips on doing a good job please?
Thanks yet again Sam
Samantha Booth coughed up some electrons that declared:
Watch for pins, nails and staples. Nicked the blade on my planer doing
exactly what you are about to.
Also, work from both ends towards the middle. Classic schoolboy error with
planing, but it was the first use of an electric for me. Somehow I thought
it would be different. It wasn't - knocked a sliver of wood off the corner
on the way out.
I would also mark it up in pencil too, both sides. 15mm is a lot off and
what starts off as a nice 90 deg level base won't be after a few passes,
unless you have something to work too.
I don't make many mistakes, because I usually worry a lot and plan well, but
that job was a total cock up, mostly because I thought it would be easy.
Turned out OK, but I had to fiddle around correcting mistakes I need not
You might actually be better off using a good hand saw for 15 mm, then a
couple of light passes with the plane to tidy the edge.
Despite it being hollow, as mine were, there's usually a good bit of solid
wood at the bottom IME.
Yes, take the planer back and get a (mains powered) circular saw.
Cordless planers are designed for taking off a light pass (1mm or
less), and a little skill is required to produce good results. Trying
to take lots of passes to take off 15mm would be tricky.
Yes the door is probably hollow, but you're trimming off part of the
solid timbers that make up the outer edge of the door and to which the
two thin "faces" of ply either side is attached.
The CC should come with a fence so you can set it to take off 15mm. Or
you can clamp a batten on for the saw to follow. Set the depth to to
just cut right through. Be careful to avoid any screws or nails. Be
highly aware of the blade protruding through the bottom of the cut,
and what it may come in contact with. A CC is a but fierce the first
time you use one, but with very little practice it will produce
consistently good results.
As always, practice with a new tool on some scrap first.
On Fri, 06 Jun 2008 13:58:13 -0700, email@example.com wrote:
I'd be a bit leery about that: the circular saws I found in B&Q
when I was last looking (3 or 4 years back I admit) were heavy 7" blade
(185mm) monsters I'd probably be glad of if I were cutting up flooring
chipboard but a bit of a liability for fine work. I used to have a nice 6"
(150mm) Elu main-powered circ but that had packed up. If the OP can find a
lightweight smaller-bladed saw (I think they tend to be described as
trimsaws) then go for it, otherwise a half decent handsaw followed by a
sand down (a small belt sander would be nice, and has other uses) would do
a good job and not take long through softwood ticky-tacky doors.
I am completely cack handed with an electric plane so I won't offer
you any advice. But I do admire you for trying so many new things
almost at the same time.
I don't think I have ever known one person to be on so many steep
learning curves at once!
LOL Thanks Bruce. Thing is if I dont ask and do it myself I will never
learn. I have done three of the bedrooms, gloss is perfect now, filled
walls, plastered one, made my own T&G bath panel from white pvc t&g which
really looks nice, fitted an outdoor socket a waterpoof one and also fitted
a tap outside today. I have made mistakes, loads but with everyones help
here I feel I can do it right. I have opened the planer now, I wonder if B&Q
will have it back???
I've got to support Bruce's comments - Isn't it surprising how your confidene
grows after just a few successful jobs, and how a little thought and advice
makes an awful lot achievable?
Since buying my first house I have also learnt a lot - I have replaced parts of
floors, added ring mains (I do have an electrician as a brother to check what I
have done) replaced heating pumps, done bits of plumbing, boxed in pipework,
tiled a kitchen etc. At the moment in preparation for decorating I am repairing
the corners of walls - the house is dry lined rather than palstered and the
corners are "protected" with tape rather than a beading, so after 20 years of
life, they are looking a little rough.
Go For It!
Yes, use a circular saw.
A handsaw will suffice, but will be hard work, take a lot longer, and
gives a poor finish.
Be aware that you may hit screws/nails when you cut through, so it could
damage a saw tooth, or damage the planer if you use that.
If you do cut off the bottom rail of the door, then you will need to fit
the cut off piece back in the door to give it some strength at the
bottom, otherwise it will quickly start separating the 2 outer panels at
To reply by e-mail, change the ' + ' to 'plus'.
Put a pencil line along both faces (front and back) of the door at the
point you want to stop planing. Plane from door edge to centre from each
side. This will prevent the plane from splitting the timber on the exit
side of the cut.
You might end up with a convex curve, but this is of no consequence as
the plane can still bite in to remove it, by starting somewhere along
the door away from it's edge. There will be a problem if you take too
much off at the middle of the door (concave shape) as you can't put it
back if you take too much off.
Ideally, the door should be held firmly and have the edge to be planed
at about waist, or chest height, so a work mate vice might be of help.
Be warned that an electric plane will throw wood chips out at 90 degrees
from the direction of planing, unless it has a dust bag, so do this
outside if there if no dust bag. And get some goggles, just in case.
Also, look at the end of the edge you are planing, just to make sure
that it is square to the face of the door, and keep an eye on the pencil
lines. I tend to wander off at an angle when I have a lot to trim off.
I've got to ask...
How thick is the carpet?
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