Planing a door

Samantha Booth wrote:

Understood.
Dave
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Samantha Booth wrote:

Remove the door first!
You have had pretty pmuchj all te advice.15mm is far too much for a plane,and its either circular saw territory or a nice new sharp cheap handsaw.
15mm is also pretty close to ripping off the internal bit of frame: consider taking 7.5mm off each end, and then revrsing the door and making new hinge slots, or sod it and get a better door and start again.
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Hi agin Sammy,you got any clamps? clamp two pieces of wood the lenght of both sides of the door at the rquired amount to take off...this will then stop any splintering of the sides. On the end of one side of the door pin a piece of wood at the same level of the other two pieces,this will stop the plane shattering the end of the doors side. Use the plane at a slight angle to the door,this will stop you gouging the end of the planes sweep. Try to sweep the plane across the door edge in one continuous sweep without stopping.
I prefer to use a router for trimming the end of doors,gives a better finish without damage.
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On Fri, 6 Jun 2008 21:34:19 +0100, Samantha Booth wrote:

Well you could hire a door saw so you don't have to take the door off it's hinges. 15mm with a planer is a lot of work and as others have pointed out keeping the thing square might be tricky.
Personally I'd check if the door is hollow or not, tap it... Then remove it, a hollow door is nice and light a solid ones are surprisingly heavy. If hollow I'd remove the bit of wood in the bottom first, 15mm is going to reduce the bit left that considerably. Removal might be fun depending on how well it is stuck to the skins, thin blade tapped along might be required. Cut the 15mm off with a hand saw, check that enough has been removed just a screw in the top and bottom hinges, then glue the bottom rail back in and rehang the door properly.
--
Cheers
Dave.




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Samantha Booth wrote:

Looking at a door catalogue the other day, think it said 6mm is the max. they recommend you remove from any one side/edge! Mind, there is a fair chance you will get away with it.
If you haven't used it yet, I would take it back and get a mains one. A planer only works welll when the blade is running at very high speed. I suspect that a battery one will not run at full speed after just a few minutes of use.
If the door is hollow where you are cutting, how will the planer not shred it? IMHO (and please do tell me if I am wrong folks) a circular saw with a fine toothed blade, guided by a batten clamped to the door, is your best bet. If, having done that, the door still needs a little adjustment, that is when a planer becomes a sensible option.
You are likely to cause some splintering along the edge of the door whatever you use. Suggest you at least apply masking tape along the line of the cut.
The door catalogue was also explicit about sealing all edges as soon as they have been cut - with paint, varnish, whatever makes sense.
--
Rod

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Rod wrote:

I've taken over a foot off a panelled door...
I had an odd sized door for the under stairs storahe (app 5' IIRC) and was quoted over 400 for a made to fit door, so I went roung B&Q with a tape measure looking at doors, and worked out that a six panelled door with the top two panels cut off, and a trim off the bottom would be a four panelled door that would fit. I had to re-glue a few bits but the door was just fine. I then replaced all the other doors in the house with four panelled doors, and the sapele was history.
--
Paul Matthews
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There is an easier way Sammy...rising butt hinges :-)
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George wrote:

I thought that was only for toilet seats ;-)
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I thought no-one was going to suggest that - seems the easier option to me - but then having /bought/ a planer...
Geo
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You lost me there what is rising but hinges??
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On 2008-06-07 21:15:46 +0100, "Samantha Booth"

It's butt hinges.
The two parta of the hinge have a sloping arrangement between them. As the door is opened it rises as it leaves the aperture of the frame.
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Samantha Booth wrote:

A type of hinge that makes the door rise up a little as you open it.
One problem with them is that the door automatically closes itself.
<http://www.ironmongeryonline.com/clickcart/khxc/index.php?app=gbu0&ns tshow&ref38&gclid=CJKale-V45MCFQRksgodH1C3bw>
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Rod

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The moment you open the door it starts rising on the hinges ie the bottom of the door starts rising over the carpet for clearance.
http://tinyurl.com/5ryhqo
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Samantha Booth wrote:

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/14640/Ironmongery/Hinges/Specialist-Hinges/Rising-Butt-Hinge-Clockwise-Pack-of-2?cm_re=SEARCHPROMO-_-RISING%20BUTT%20HINGES%20-_-14640 #
You get clockwise closing (left hand closing) or anti clockwise (right hand) If you open the instructions pdf in the link it explains this.
--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
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wrote:

Do you know how much it rises by?
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Samantha Booth wrote:

Please rephrase that. :-)
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Rod

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wrote:

LOL, Yeah ! the ACTUAL size please, not what you "think" it rises by. You men ! LOL
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Samantha Booth wrote:

Depends on the hinge. On the Screwfix one, the hinge is 75mm and the distance between the top and bottom of the spiral looks to be less than 25mm but more than 10mm - I'd guess around 20mm. So, at 180 degree open (or as near as possible) the rise would be around 10mm. At 90 degrees it would be half that. (Wish the spec. said what rise.)
I do not recommend them. Main reason is that the door does not rise much until it is fairly wide open. So you tend to get an area of carpet near the door frame which is swept by the door each time it is opened. (Of course, if it did rise the moment it started to open, you would need a signficant gap between the top of the door and the door frame to allow for it.)
--
Rod

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wrote:

option
hinge
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/14640/Ironmongery/Hinges/Specialist-Hinges/Ris ing-Butt-Hinge-Clockwise-Pack-of-2?cm_re=SEARCHPROMO-_-RISING%20BUTT%20HINGE S%20-_-14640#
(right
You
You're doing a lot of guess work there,where does it say its 75mm? have you ever used em?
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George wrote:

It says it is 75 mm on the page (hover over the picture, IIRC). :-)
Yes George - the rest is guesswork. I did openly declare that it is based on looks. I have used generic rising butt hinges in the past - not those from Screwfix.
AND I typed the wrong numbers!! I meant at 180 deg. rise = 20mm, at 90 deg. rise = 10mm.
But deep down I was trying to explain how Sam could judge for herself if she is in a shop looking at such hinges. And that the rise is totally dependent on how open the door is.
--
Rod

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