pir floodlight recommendations plse

Looking to replace some generic 500w pir floods - what would folks suggest I replace with? Same? Other? What reliable brands co I looking for ?

Requirement is for "instant" security lighting & running cost is secondary really.

Cheers Jim K

Reply to
Jim K
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IME they're all the same.

A word of advice here though, the nut and bolt are made of steel while the body is made of ally, this always rusts away and seizes up, making eventual bulb replacement a nightmare, lob it in the bin and use a stainless steel nut and bolt, or, if you can get them tight enough to seal, plastic cable ties, which can be cut off as an when required.

Reply to
Phil L

I use the original, but grease it.

Reply to
Andrew Gabriel

replace with? Same? Other? What reliable brands co I looking for ?

You possibly never needed 500W and something like halogen 150w would have been OK. If you need "instant" then possibly the lights fitted with energy saving CLFs may not be ideal outside in a cold winter.

I would replace like with like but with possibly a lower wattage halogen. As others have said, grease up the fixing screws and the screw holding the front glass to stop them seizing solid.

The alternative may be LED, but at mega-money.

Reply to
alan

replace with? Same? Other? What reliable brands co I looking for ?

Someone asked me in another thread last week (which I can't now find) if halogens are to be banned and I said no. Next day at LuxLive, I discovered they are to be banned in 2016.

So I would buy a cheap halogen one now, and expect to replace it with an LED one sometime after 2016, when LED will hopefully be much cheaper than it is now.

Reply to
Andrew Gabriel

gest I replace with? Same? Other? What reliable brands co I looking for ?

It``s a moving target , due for review in 2015 anyway and lot of exclusions.

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K series tubulars are different , but another one where adeuqte replacements are hard to pin down

Cheers Adam

Reply to
Adam Aglionby

En el artículo , Jim K escribió:

B&Q are doing 120W (150W equivalent) PIR floods for about 8 quid. Fitted a few and they've been fine.

They also have 400W ones (equiv to 500W) by the same maker but didn't notice the price.

Reply to
Mike Tomlinson

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mebbe K series tubulars are different , but another one where adeuqte

That's talking about LV halogens, which the EU lamp manufacturers are pushing hard to get outlawed, to force everyone to use their much more profitable and expensive LEDs.

However, I was told banning mains halogens is now a done deal which are much less efficient than 12V halogens, and I do have some sympathy with this. Personally, I would have stringled GU10's and G9's at birth.

LED replacements for 300/500W halogens are manufactured now, but not available at prices affordable to typical home owners.

I am somewhat annoyed that this legislation is being driven by EU lamp manufacturing looking to its own profits, rather than the technical merits.

My other gripe here is removal of low pressure sodium lighting lighting, which is also being driven by lighting manufacturers. It's still by far the most efficient, and perfectly adequate for most street lighting. However, the lighting industry has convinced the DoT to get rid of it, and then they find after purchasing and installing the replacement lighting, that they can't afford to run it and switch it off. Full marks to the lighting industry for fooling the government into purchasing new products which it can't use, and which we pay for...

Reply to
Andrew Gabriel

Thanks.

Off to eBay to stock up.

Reply to
Huge

En el artículo , Andrew Gabriel escribió:

I've seen CFL replacements for those online, e.g.

for 118mm/500W

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78mm/150W

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can't see them fitting the usual external enclosures, never mind being able to put out as much light as the halogens they are replacing.

This one, 150W LED replacement looks interesting though and is only a tenner, but you'd have to add a PIR. I think I'll buy one to try.

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Reply to
Mike Tomlinson

Did you read the 1 star review?

Reply to
polygonum

replace with? Same? Other? What reliable brands co I looking for ?

The only decent brand IMCO are Steinal, but they ain't cheap.

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Reply to
The Medway Handyman

replace with? Same? Other? What reliable brands co I looking for ?

I installed four of these a couple of months ago. Very easy to do because they come apart and don't require a difficult balancing act at the top of the ladder.

One of these was also very useful:

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Reply to
Peter Johnson

In article , Mike Tomlinson writes

value too:

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I got from CPC about a year ago with multiple discrete LEDs was absolutely dismal, v poor output.

Reply to
fred

Steinel 500w unit with a 230w Eco lamp in it which covers the near part of the rear garden. I switched to Steinel after the third of the B&Q and CEF specials started rusting (we live on the coast). Also use Steinel sensors to control the more decorative fittings around the frontage.

-- rbel

Reply to
rbel

replace with? Same? Other? What reliable brands co I looking for ?

Has anyone had experience of the YYC ones at Scan?

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on brand YYC and there are around 6 models.)

Reply to
polygonum

ISTR that Sheffield claims that it will be the first city in the UK that will use LEDs for ALL of its street lighting.

This is where you need JGHarston's input to find out if this is true.

He is a bloody good dee-dar (ie someone from Sheffield in Barnsley speak) who knows Sheffield council.

Reply to
ARW

I used 150W halogen for my garden and my drive and they were fine. I've never understood why 150W aren't more popular than 500W ones? Particularly from the electricity bill point of view.

I bought a CFL one and worried about this. IME it is not that bad. In the cold, it comes on instantly but not quite at full brightness but bright enough to see what you are doing. If you then move out of the way and it goes off and then comes on again, I guess because the lamp has warmed, it comes on at full brightness immediately. It is a bluer light than halogen though.

Reply to
Fred

One thing that no-one has mentioned yet is whether it is better to have a separate sensor rather than one integral to the light.

Having them combined possibly makes installation simpler. I think having them separate makes it easier to point the light and sensor in the directions you choose and allows you more control over the light.

My grumble about PIR lights is that they often have this on-off-on switching to make them switch permanently on. When we get a brownout on a gloomy day, the PIRs think this is an on-off-on command and stay on all afternoon.

Reply to
Fred

st I replace with? Same? Other? What reliable brands co I looking for ?

four of what?

Also been reading comments that "ordinary" PIR detectors (e.g. part of an existing setup) aren;t happy switching LED floods?

Anyone know/heard about that?

Cheers Jim K

Reply to
Jim K

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