Pipe fitting

Looks like ABS pressure pipe

Maybe the owner just had some oddments knocking around, rather than there being any need for it?

Except

give the wall thickness of 1.7mm and an ID of 13.7mm.

That did cross my mind, but I was assuming this done for a purpose.

That would be about right for 3/8" bore Class E uPVC pipe.

The other way around - so it doesn't burst under its rated 15 bar pressure.

Thanks, but

gives the following dimensions:

N B PIPE OD (mm) CLASS MAX W P WALL (mm)

suggesting an ID of 14mm?

I didn't spot that class 7, whatever that is, in the line below has a wall thickness of 3.8mm suggesting an internal diameter of 9.5mm

That comes of my using old reference books. Originally, PVC pipe sizes were based upon iron and steel pipes, which were held together with BSP threaded connections and had walls thick enough to allow a thread to be cut on them. It seems that BS EN 1452:1999 allows smaller PVC pipes used with solvent weld fittings to have the minimum wall thickness to achieve the pressure rating, but also includes Class 7, for use where a thread needs to be cut on the pipe. I don't use the smallest pipe sizes, so hadn't come across that before.

Are you asking this for a reason, or is the real purpose to spam uk.diy with your commercial web address ?.

Seems that it's worth looking at the classes for wall thickness if the use includes hot water at pressure. I had to change a bit of pipe, just in case, when the DHW went from gravity-fed to combi - pipe is full of water at, say, 60C+ then the pressure rises when the tap is closed. The water pressure here was about 5 bar at peak - I think it's a bit lower now.

The purpose is to find out the fitting used. The link was to a photo and I see no different to using a photo sharing website. If you've seen many like this with these dimensions then please do add some value to this thread.

I like the idea of solvent weld water pipe as opposed to push-fit. It seems to have the flexibility of plastic and the confidence of copper end-feed fittings without the time and issues of soldering. The problem I now have is that the major convenient places I get my plumbing stuff from, ie Screwfix and Toolstation only have push-fit.

The problem with solvent weld is it doesn't really solvent weld. I've tried dismantling 'welded' jains and it's not hard.

NT

That suggests you used the wrong solvent or it was dirty.

Then something went wrong. A correct solvent weld is as strong as the pipe. You can never dismantle one of those - you have to cut the pipe and use new fittings.

I used to think so, but no. You do have to cut the pipe, but it can then be removed leaving the fitting usually reusable.

NT

I have used solvent glue on other plastics, and I find it works up to a point. The glue forms a flexible rubbery texture which creeps under any tension.

Having said that, given the area of contact in a pipe fitting, and the short distance between the inner and outer surfaces, it's not something I would be worried about and should work very well.

The pipe has a film of something on it (dunno what) that has to be removed with sandpaper to make a good solvent weld joint.

It's important to insert the fitting an twist it when gluing up. This distribute the glue over the entire surface of the joint.

Adhesive instructions specifically say do not twist it.

NT

I thought we were talking about using the correct glue for the job.

Solvent weld is for PVC pipes. The sort of grey stuff you'll commonly find used for waste. Often called Terrain. If used correctly with that, you will never separate a joint. Believe me, I've tried. ;-)

What was the approved method of jointing the type of pipe you used?

I was talking about the solvent glue for waste pipes. Aren't they ABS?

That was my point, that the solvent glue seemed to have ideal qualities for joining what are effectively capillary joins in plastic pipe.

I was surmising that the solvent welding of pipes should be very effective.

Well mine said to twist it to spreasd the glue. Which makes sense.