Piggin Doors - an Idea!

Dec 07, 2005 71 Replies

Wow that's quick. I would never have thought it was possible to get out the saw horses/table, set-up the straight edge for the circular saw, make the cut, glue the edge and wait for it to dry all in ten minutes. I must be really slow at this lark.

For what it's worth when I hung my hardwood front door I took it from stock to hung in about 2 hours using only an electric plane (free - borrowed) and a cheap set of chisels(=A315). It fits like a glove and the best bit was cutting the rebates for the hinges. Very rewarding to get such a nice precise finish by hand.

--=20 Steve F

A plane and a bit of good old fashioned sweat would have it sorted in about 20 mins start to finish including cutting deeper hinge rebates with a sharp chisel. No glue needed, no clamping nor allowance for drying time that makes your '10 mins' look so advantageous.

Someone I just mentioned this to said sawing off 3/8" then gluing it back on to simply remove 1/8" falls firmly in the Reg Prescott* area of inept DIY. I tend to agree :D

[*] As played by Kenny Everett

Why plane off perfectly good, accurate rebates? What's the point in planing them away, then re cutting them?

I didn't need to clamp it, 12 x 2" screws and a dozen brads held it perfectly well - it dried when hung.

Pearls before swine if you ask me. Lateral thinking at it's best and no one appreciates it...................

Dave

A few years ago, I made myself a saw/router bench from 19 mm MDF. When I bought the MDF I had it cut so that I had some pieces left over, that were wide enough and long enough to be used as straight edges. I made three of them, so as to be able to re-check them well after they were made. (If all three did not agree with each other, something had changed shape) As Andy says, I wouldn't use a length of 2 (50) by 1 (25) as you would never know if it was straight that day :-)

Dave

Whichever way you look at it, it's a bodge. I wouldn't be happy with the result, and would *always* be able to see the join.

I did a SelfBuild and the place is dry-lined out with Fermacell ... small curved Surform perfect for all glued board-board joints, also plane trype great for getting edges true or adjusting at reveals etc.

I also built a number of horn speaker design (500 -1000W) and to get the perfect flared horn (24" plus) I used cascamite to glue lengths of 3/4" square wheyrock edge to edge following a pattern, and once dry used the plane type surfome to somooth off all edges top giev a perfcet smooth horn flare.

They used to be good for putting a chamfer on the edge of 4" OSMA pipes, but the new style fittings no longer need a chamfer. Surform was much better than the site standrd of a face brick !

Rick

I know a bodge when I see one - and this isn't one! You cant see the join! I'm sounding like Eric Morecombe now...............

Dave

No one said anything about planing the rebates away, you cut them deeper before you plane.

Oh I'm sure we all appreciate it, amusement of this type is always welcomed :)

The equally important point is that if it's a good quality door, then it is worth spending the time and the money to achieve a proper job.

Because that's the way it should be done to produce the best quality outcome.

Hmmmm.....

I use my mandoline a lot - have you never had pan haggerty? Yum!

One more thing: good for carving low density cement blocks. You can put rounded tops and ends on walls etc

NT

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