There are two basic types of copper pipe. One is made by repeatedly
drawing a hollow billet through a series of dies until the desired size
is reached. This is the commonest type and very strong, as there are no
weak points in the tube.
The other type is made by rolling a sheet of copper to form a tube, and
welding the edges together using heat and pressure. This is prone to the
longitudinal splitting mentioned. I've not seen it used for a long
while, so it may not meet modern legal requirements.
On Friday, July 18, 2014 7:43:00 AM UTC+1, F Murtz wrote:
Some info from reading around:
Plumbing fittings available in the UK are intended for soldering - especially the thin walled copper.
Copper to be brazed needs thicker wall pipe since high temperatures can weaken or fracture the thin walled copper, especially when flaring the pipe.
Also, couplers for brazing have shallower joints due to the brazing material not running in so far by capillary action.
Brazing is required for caravans or mobile homes, since soft solder can fracture with the movement.
You can get thicker copper "fridge pipe" for use with brazing. Also, Yorkshire do a separate range of pipe and fittings for brazing.
Due to higher temperatures, brazing can be more dangerous in confined spaces, under floors, etc. It can also be harder to remove joints when making modifications.
Also, UK is using more push fit and / or plastic plumbing components - is this used in Australia at all ?
On Wednesday, July 23, 2014 10:54:41 AM UTC+1, sm_jamieson wrote:
ces, under floors, etc. It can also be harder to remove joints when making
While I normally use soldered fittings at home, when I have plumbing done o
n the systems at work it would be normal to use push fit on copper. That's
mainly due to the enormous hassle involved in getting a premit for hot work
(e.g. any time you light a gas torch). If you're doing anything that might
set off the fire alarm you have to arrange for the local fire alarms to be
deactivated, and for someone to be present for the whole time the alarms a
re off as a fire watch.
I wouldn't be surprised if other places go for push fit for similar reasons
It must be far from common as I've only ever seen this once. But not an
expert on burst pipes due to freezing because of where I live.
For info, it was in my outside loo. One part of the house I hadn't
re-plumbed by then, so I dunno if the joint was properly made. But it did
looked well tinned. I cleaned it, applied flux, heated it and pushed it
back together - with a little extra solder. Worked fine until I modernised
the loo and replaced all the plumbing in it. About 25 years ago. ;-)
*42.7% of statistics are made up. Sorry, that should read 47.2% *
Dave Plowman email@example.com London SW
I'm not really, essentially because I can't really picture too many
pipe configs where you'd get enough expansion of the ice as it
freezes to push the joint components that far to get it to pop.
I don’t think its force so much as just distance
that is why you don’t see it much.
Indeed. Particularly after we have just seen him try to bullshit his
way out of his predicament on electric motors designed to run 24/7
On Thursday, July 24, 2014 6:34:34 AM UTC+1, harry wrote:
Unlikely that a soldered joint would fail before the tube split IMHO, but you're assuming the joint had been properly made.
It's still possible if it hadn't been done correctly (wrong clearances, wrong solder, solder overheated & degraded, incompatible fittings, etc.,).
There're just so many ways to cock it up.
Full of bollix as per usual.
If you want to be able to dissemble a pipe the correct fitting to use is a
Threaded joints rapidly expend the female side and cease to be water/gas
tight if tightened a few times.
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