Outdoor Lights - Pondering

Aug 07, 2026 Last reply: 1 month ago 24 Replies

Hi D-I-Y Team



Within the next month, I hope to have a new drive laid, so it got me to thinking about the possibility of lights at end of the drive. Full disclosure, the drive is only about 2 cars long so this is not a grand affair.



Reading supplier web sites, it seems that low voltage lighting is preferred which has the advantage of being outside Part P.



I currently have "outside" lights attached to the property. But these have no exposed wiring and are powered/connected to the downstairs lighting ring.



It just so happens that the junction box for the existing outside lights is located in the garage. So I was wondering whether it would be acceptable to take a switched live from that JB to a transformer and from there run 2 feeds each to a separate light either side of the drive.



Further questions.....



What spec of cable should be used, buried under the new drive sub-base? Any additional earth requirements necessary? Recommendations on light fittings would be appreciated - I envisage low intensity bulbs mounted on short posts to highlight the drive extremities will be good enough.



Many thanks for any insights.


Phil


Why not just use ordinary mains powered LED lights? Will anyone notice?

When burying things, there is nothing better than a duct. You never know what you might want to pull through it later.

One disadvantage is that there can be high voltage drops in the low voltage wiring.

Do yer Ohm's Law s*it before forking out money to lay inadequate cabling

Pretty ideal if its a well isolated PSU and the cables are thick enough

LED lighting has made it a lot easier as the current demands are only

30% or less of tungsten

F****ng big ones.

Even for just a couple of 5W LEDs

Not at 12V or less

Me I like fake traditional fittings, so Victorian lampposts...:-)

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You can get E27 low voltage LED bulbs for them

Actually looking at suitable bulbs...

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...I note that they will run from 36V down to 12V which means that something like a 24V supply could drop a ton of voltage before it dimmed the bulbs

My earlier warnings were on account of experience with 12V halogens

Ok,. I wrote this and did the research simultaneously...

TLDR summary:- ========== Use 24V supply or thereabouts USE LED LV bulbs Use whatever lamp style you fancy Use as thick cable as you can get away with. Personally I'd use 2.5mm three core armoured buried at least 600mm if I was young and fit...Its not earth shatteringly expensive and is the de luxe choice Earth not needed at 24V, but can be added for extra safety

For direct burial, SWA is the only real option without some other form of protection. Double insulated cables like HiTuff can be run on the ground and exposed to sunlight etc, but is not designed to be buried without additional protection like conduit or a duct.

If running a SELV[1] then it does not have or require an earth (the of the "transformer" is floating with respect to earth)

[1]
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Bollard lights might do:

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or perhaps "drive over" lights:

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Many moons ago I dealt with a mains-powered pond pump problem with a couple of back-to-back transformers. The pump was rated at around 30W, and was about 30 feet from the mains plug.

I had a pair of identical toroidal transformers with several taps on the secondary. So I connected one of the secondary taps to the cable which ran down the garden, then connected the far end of the cable to the other toroidal tranny in reverse, and with the pump connected up and working, measured the voltage across the pump. When it was near to 230V, I made the connection permanent. I seem to remember that the voltage was about 30V at the first secondary, and I used the 20V (or maybe 24V?) connection at the other end, so the voltage drop along the cable became unimportant.

It worked without problem 24/7 for at least 5 years.

Built your own 'garden grid' Neat!

Bur with LEDs you dont need to go back up to 240V...

All I had to was to be particularly careful to remember that was that there was no RCD-type protection available at the pump's terminals - especially as the pump was of the submerged type and soaking wet!

True, and the total current is unlikely to exceed an amp or two.

How did I manage to garble that??!! It should read:

All I had to do was to be particularly careful to remember that there was no RCD-type protection available at the pump's terminals - especially as the pump was of the submerged type and soaking wet!

how about MICC? or that old fashioned. I did learn how to use it in 1960!

I wouldn't trust mineral insulation

3 cored armoured is the real McCoy

With an isolated 24V supply there is no extra safety with an earth, but if it is connected to a house PME supply there is actually a small extra danger.

While it's being dug up, run ducts for:

- Lighting

- Fibre broadband (even if you already have that, perhaps another operator will turn up - eg Virgin + Openreach or Openreach + Cityfibre)

- EV charging point(s)

(some of those can be the same duct)

And perhaps a bit more excessively:

- new water main (in case your old one is lead / knackered)

- three phase electricity (in case your current supply isn't adequate for additional loads like EV charging or heat pump)

Check ebay and Facebook Marketplace, often bits of duct left over from building sites are available for cheap.

Theo

Thanks John and Theo

What would you suggest for duct material/size?

Phil

Thanks John

I reckon the bollard lights will be suitable here.

By the way, I'm the same guy that you and Adam helped out with the cooker circuit and local East Yorkshire building inspector fiasco in

2012 - still grateful!

Phil

Thanks Jeff

But that sounds way too electrical techy for me!!

Phil

Thanks NP

I like the TLDR Summary although not sure on that acronym.

Any recommendations on a suitable transformer please?

The low voltage cable runs will be around 12m to each light from the (garage located) transformer.

Phil

63mm (outer) / 50mm (inner) twinwall is the standard size for small jobs:
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You can get smaller but I'd not do that if you can help it.

What I did was buy a 30m offcut of the black stuff - black = LV electricity (ie 240V). Then I spray painted it for the service it was carrying - saves having to buy multiple rolls of different colours which gets annoying if you only need a few metres.

There's also somebody on ebay selling colours by the metre but they're in Devon and that's too far to collect.

Before installation, I used the included (thin) drawcord to pull through some 6mm polypropylene rope as my pull cord.

(although I actually fed the two cables of SWA through before installing the duct, as it's quite heavy)

Theo

Too Long Didnt Read

Well I source that sort of stuff from China, which isn't a favourite place if you have to ask, so I'll let someone else answer that

That sounds OK. As long as you have LV leds in there the drop doesnt matter that much

Thanks again Theo - your input is appreciated

Phil

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