Typical lifetime LEDs last 30 years
Like f*ck they do.
I guess that in two years time I will be swapping as many failed LEDs as I now swap fluorescent tubes.
And some of those fluorescent tubes did 10 years.
No. 1 is chuck out your gas boiler.
If they're so bad, why did the Govt give me a new boiler only a year ago?
Owain
I've an under-cupboard one that's lasted over 20 years so far. Perhaps a rarity. I would guess that an LED bulb lasting 20 years would be even rarer.
However, they have got one thing right; "One of the most effective ways of cutting your home's emissions is by reducing heat loss through the insulation of walls, roofs and floors".
I think grants for installing external insulation would be very good. I'd 'ave their arm off at the socket.
I suppose they will offer grants to poorly insulated places, when they have about £30bn to spare.
My under-cupboard one in the kitchen has been there since 1989. mind you SWMBO doesn't use itb all that often,
Initially many of my LED lamps failed, but in the last 18 months none of the new ones I have put in have failed.
Intrinsically a LED does have a very long lifespan, but the circuitry that drives it is still a work in progress.
The fluorescent tube my late father installed in the garage circa 1960 was still working when my mother moved into care in 1983
It didn't get a lot of use.
Look, LEDs will in the end get reliable enough for maybe 30 year life, but there will always be a pressure to make them less reliable so you need to buy new ones. But I think that 10 years or more is a very achievable target 30 is do-able but my guess is that those would be sold at a premium to make up for the fact that you wont sell many after the first batch.
I note that they are starting to show maximum switching operations on the packaging.
Chris
Tubes tend to fade though, at least those with electronic ballasts do, the switch ballast type go flashy of course. With LEDs it seems hit and miss. Friends say they last at full brightness much longer than tubes or cfls, but occasionally, you get a dodgy batch it seems. A certain DIY store seems to get more of those than one might expect, but I bet they are all just badge engineered. The best way to save on lighting costs is to walk around in the dark like wot I do. Brian
I've been 'full LED' for about 5 years, started fitting them about 10 years ago. No downlighters or anything posh, but not a single failure. Yet.
I have been almost 100% full LED for 10 years... the remaining are awaiting swap outs
2 off Flourescents in Loft 2 off flourescents in garage 2 off CFL's in inglenook fireplace itself. This one is goign to be a challenge as LEDs won't last long with the heat from teh wood burner.The most unreliable make of internal LED lamps I have come across is Pro Power from CPC. I've had to replace these seberal times now.
The other more reliable internal LED make has been LAP from Screwfix
As for the Outdoor PIR LED floodlights... which Bozo decided it was a good idea to put the cable entry gland at the top of the unit..... They fill up with rain water and trip the RCBO. The make? LAP from Screwfix!
They have several seals in that gland, every single one of them has to be water tght, and I've been using self amalgaamating tampe to create a long shoulder seal from the metal casing all teh way up over the cable.
You've fitted them but do you ever switch them on? ;-)
I think the main problem with leds is overheating in unventilated holders designed for filament bulb use. This is particularly true with the smaller bulbs such as G9.
One thing somewhat OT and not mentioned here is the varying colour of even new leds. I bought 10 leds (golf-ball SES), and seven are one colour and the other 3 slightly more yellowish. I know fluorescents can vary too, but I've never noticed an in-batch variation such as I had with the leds. Anyone else seen this?
LEDs can be made reliable, but they cost more...
Hoho, yes! I leave a landing light on when I'm away, and a few are on pretty much al lthe time I'm home. Most aren't 'premium' - either pound shop or screwfix own brand (their 15W excellent if you actually want to see something).
The oldest - easily over 10 years - is in a desk lamp that gets used a few hours each day. Imported from China for pennies just as LEDs became a thing.
I've got 3 Ikea wireless bulbs that do get quite warm - might expect those to expire first.
Nope.
FWIW after some initial immediate failures (a handful), we are now beyond 5 years with replacing all of ours with replacements from Poundland.
(I'll revisit this post in 5 years time, (if usenet is still around))
-&-
LED lamps are normally built with strings of LEDs in series across some high voltage. When one goes, many (or all) go out.
My series wired 45yr old Christmas tree bulbs each have a mechanism that has each filament shorts when it fails, maintaining continuity of the string albeit a slight rise in voltage for the remaining bulbs.
With active electronics, I perhaps could go to town designing a fault tolerant ultimate LED light 'bulb'.
Manufacturers back then cared about avoiding the disappointment of John and Mary around a dark Christmas tree, but them fumbling about in the dark today with a blown LED, erm not much.
The Natural Philosopher explained :
I have around 20 in my garage workshop, installed 40 years ago and all still working with no replacements needed since install. Obviously they don't get much use.
Thats a lot of flourescent lights for a garage workshop..... are some of them under cupboard lights instead?
SH formulated the question :
No, it is a largish area, with quite a low ceiling height and so needed more lights to illuminate the area. I have them on separate banks, so I can just put them on where I am working.
Yes that's a good point how would the average joe know it was the LED f***ed and not the electrolytic drying out in the inbuilt PSU.
Make them cheaper by having less metal to conduct the heat away from the junction point.
Like anything else quality costs, and having an LED that last 30 years in yuor TV well what's the point. But the blinking power ON/Sleep LED in my 1999 power Mac G4 tower is still working ;-)
I'm pleased you explained. I had jumped to the wrong conclusion - cannabis farm. :)
"Windows for a semi-detached house that are A-rated, taking in as much heat as they let out, would cost about £4,250, with energy bill savings of about £75 per year."
Absolute bargain. Where do I sign?
Money back in about 57 years as a simple calculation. However savings would be higher as energy prices get higher. Still doesn't look like a sound money saver.
Cheers
Dave R
Dunster house.
8 years ago, 9 windows, 3 doors, 1 patio door, £3429 + VAT, DIY fitting.HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.