Thanks, John, but I'm not looking hard at the moment, and when I am looking, it's at the cheap end of ebay! I also would like to own one of those, but this is for a one-off job, so I could buy a replacement amp. cheaper. I just bowed out of an e-bay auction for a similar amp to mine when it got up above £20 ! Mine is, I believe, rescue-able, so I will proceed with it. I have just restored a Pioneer PL-12D record deck, now I need some way to listen to it. But thanks for dropping by from KC.
totally
Those are nice. Humbly presented but good quality decks - though not perfec t.
NT
I paid £20 for that and another deck, a Homemix. Two Hitachi 'speakers were thrown in for good measure. I reckon they were used for disco work, the decks had the same foam turntable cover, and the same model of cartridge, with one bad stylus for the two units. I replaced the whole cartridge, amongst a bunch of other rebuild stuff. All ready to go.
In article , Davey scribeth thus
Least you will learn something by doing that, and thats where I learnt a lot over time.
Trouble is yoof of today don't do anything like this all they want to do is sit in front to a PC and play with it..
Why, when I were a lad etc etc and more boring etc's!...
I fixed the main bearing on mine
NT
This one was basically fine. Needed cleaning up of old grease, re-oiling, new belt, new foam in the springs, rejuvenation of the motor suspension rubbers. I joined VinylEngine, and got access to manuals and advice for free. Anybody want a Garrard that needs a plinth and cover?
I have my parts now, but I also have a couple of questions:
All help gratefully received.
In article , Davey scribeth thus
That should possibly be the case, where did it come from and what was the stock number?..
Should be .. couldn't you find any PCB "axial" mounting ones around anywhere?. Once again Supplier and stock number please;)...
IIRC they are connected together and reresent things that are useed to share current and if not connected should be
oh joy. is this cap with wires coming out of EACH end in which case te end with flange is positive?
RS. 107-864P
The Product Information sheet only confuses me, it appears to refer to a PCB mount device rather than a through-hole. Weird.
RS. 788-7558P
It was the only one that came up, and I wanted to stick with RS, as I was already ordering everything else from them. Ideal would be 'Through Hole' just like all the others. I could look elsewhere, but then I would probably come up against the minimum charge problem.
The one of these I've used has a digram and text on the 'wrapper' of the can telling you which pin does what, in my case A=blank, B=22000uf35V, C=blank & last one negative.
Well I found:
715-2616, 747-1913, 707-5676, 378-568 & 116-868All are about the right values, I chose 8u2 & 10u, & 20V or 25V as I presume it will be a smoothing type cap and not a frequency critical one.
HTH
Avpx
In article , Davey scribeth thus
Jeezz thats overkill!. Looks like Pin one is positive and the rest might or be should be negative.. Not too clear..
Stock number 771-4747 would have done fine!...
positions are totally non critical extra capacity and volts will not go amiss;!..
519-4289 116-795 116-925Surface or PCB mount like that are fine for modern automated production but the older types exist for repair and service and small scale production. The few above are termed radial as the leads come out the one end, axial are where the wires come out both ends.
But never mind they'll do you might have to extend the leads on the PCB mount types or put then on the other side of the board if they will fit there and you have room..
But the device has 107-864/1 4700uF2- NEG/63 VDC/11340330 1138 where / represents a new line.
True, but I'll live with what I've got, once I work it out. Maybe I'll ask RS.
I'll look at reverse-side installation when I have it all apart. This only applies to one piece, so is no big deal. I could indeed extend the leads, too. I think I got tired of looking at capacitors on the screen, and missed a few more suitable ones.
Thanks.
See my replay to tony sayer for what's on this one.
I repeated my search last night, with the same result as I had before, so I must be being too intolerant or something when setting my filters. Ah well, next time.....
Thanks.
In article , Davey scribeth thus
Well it does say Pin 1 is positive in the data sheet so I'd suspect that the others may well be connected to negative. Drop them a mail or give 'em a ring their usually very helpful...
Yes, I think a personal question is appropriate. Especially as the implication looking at the actual device is not what you suggest! The Data Sheet just does not match what I see. A basic continuity check is totally inconclusive, showing no pair to be common.
From the data sheet
"Connections: Hole 1 represents +ve, Hole 5 represents -ve. Terminals
2,3 and 4 may be at negative terminal potential due to the presence of electrolyte. They are intended for mechanical connections only. It is recommended that they are soldered to the printed circuit board. Additional dummy pins are provided for stability. Note that the case and dummy pins may be at negative terminal potential."So one of the tags is negative - the one that's marked - and one is the positive (probably 3) and the rest are simply mechanical stuff.
you should use a resistance meter to see which actual pin is the positive, should be 3, as it will give a kick between it and negative.
The other pins SHOULD be connected to negative as far as I can see, or left floating.
They are purely for mechanical support on a PCB.
Somewhat ambiguous drawing that.. there is a pin 5 on one diagram but not on the cap drawing thats denoted with a "-" sign and then slight differing size data depending on quite what type it is be that a 20 or
22 series..How many pins does it have Davey four or five?..
Yes, I came to the same conclusion after looking at it all again. Except that none of the pins are connected directly to any others, so the spare ones are purely for mechanical support. Now all I need to do is to confirm that pin 1 is the '+'. Not 3, I don't think. My caps. are the 35mm ones. The whole thing is not helped by calling the holes and the pins by different numbers! So I'm looking at 'Hole 1', which is either Pin 1 or Pin 2. Next time (!), I'll look for ALT-style caps.
Four. See my reply to The N. P.
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