Be careful when drilling a hole in the floor...
- posted
11 years ago
Be careful when drilling a hole in the floor...
Flat batteries on the GPS.
On Friday 08 March 2013 18:56 Andrew Gabriel wrote in uk.d-i-y:
An old mate worked for a large construction company. One job involved augering very deep piles either side of a tube line (Central IIRC, yes it was deep).
They had extremely strict protocols that involved LuL engineer working with them putting monitoring in the tunnels, and checking all the proposed drill sites against maps.
So I wonder what these monkeys were doing. Someone's getting a big bill!
That should not be able to happen with todays technology and red tape about construction. After all if they really are piling drills than somone is building a structure over a tunnel, sounds very dodgy to me.
brian
It will never happen to me, my drills are not quite long enough!
similar happened when the Eurostar bridge was being built at Nine Elms and Thames Water were digging their tunnel for the new water ring main. The tunnel suddenly had tons of concrete coming in through the roof. Of course, at that time teh tunnel probably wasn't on any map.
Is is possible that the drill was deflected in to the tunnel by something unusually hard in the ground? No idea what, but it can happen on a small scale, so presumably it can happen on a large scale.
What shall I stock up on, then? I still need something persistent for the driveway (ca. 1/4 mile) now we're not allowed to use sodium chlorate.
I suppose I could always be nice to the farmer and get chemicals from him.
Thank you. I worked it out backwards from the useage rate on the bottle of 45mg/l stuff from the garden centre. But 10ml/litre is much easier to remember, and it's not like I'm short of the stuff.
That's funny, I need more.
:-)
Once I stopped growing cereals and having regular contact with an agronomist, I quickly lost touch with product withdrawals. Simazine has been gone for some time.
Umm.. If he is in receipt of farm CAP money he may say *nice* does not justify the risk. DEFRA can withhold part or all of his payment with no route to appeal.
There is a product called *Woody* which has quite a wide control spectrum including woody species but ignores established grasses. You can sort those with your Glyphosate:-)
There is a *weed susceptibility guide* on the Cheminova site. Relay-P has about the best control for broad leaved weeds in grass but none of these products has any long term persistency.
Just use common salt. Not quite as good but cheaper. Best done in dry weather.
The stuff you normally see in the UK ia called "Pastor". Kills broadleaved weeds but not grass. Very effective. They sell it to anyone. At the moment.
*applause*
But seriously, useful leaflet here;
Looks like the comments about my getting the dilution rate wrong are because I used the figures for watering cans instead of sprayers.
I mix up about 30l at a time and store it in a drum with a tap. I've no doubt I'm going to be told it doesn't keep but I've been doing it for years and it bloody does work. Easy to draw off small quantities if required. No idiots or kids around here!
I also use Premazor as am alternative to the late lamented Simazine. It can be mixed with Roundup for a single application. Tried it first last year and found it very effective.
I have old polycarbonate measures from the days when I had a darkroom. Perhaps a hunt on ebay for photograpic darkroom equipment might turn up something
When I cook the instructions say add ?ml of water 15ml is usually equal to 2 teaspoons.
You have to pierce the film lid AND add water AND stir :-0 As they say on masterchef cooking doesn't get tougher than this.
Now, if you had about 40,000km...
You can buy them on eBay anyway.
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