Once upon a time there was a special glue for china

Jan 04, 2021 Last reply: 5 years ago 15 Replies

It was white. They didn't have any in Been and Queued - is it just them, or is there something better?



Epoxy tends to leave a dark line.



Andy


Casein glues? But these days cyanoacrylite, just don't put it in the dishwasher.

You can get epoxy with pigment in it, or you can get pigment to mix into regular epoxy. (I suspect the pigment is TiO2, which can be bought on ebay, but not sure)

Theo

You need a pigment with a high refractive index (RI). Any old white powder won't do. If the RI of the powder is similar to that of the resin, the whole mix becomes translucent and muddy-coloured. TiO2 is good.

white loaded epoxy is what you want - Milliput. Made for china repair. Once all is on place, 90°C oven for 24 hours.

Seems to have been discontinued. No demand I expect ;-)

You can still get original straw coloured or for a price water clear.

You can/could get TiO2 loaded epoxy. I make my own from the pigment. eg

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You can sometimes buy the right stuff from Aldi/Lidl if you can wait.

+1 but it seems to have been discontinued in glue form.

You can still get it as a white epoxy filler but not glue.

Any good?

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what does the ceramic expert on the "Repair shop" use ?.

it never was a 'glue'

Or it always was. It is an adhesive putty that fills gaps down to extremely fine levels.

Used warm, you can get away with surprisingly little.

I remember that too, but it did not seem to be very strong. Also if you had pottery of other colours you war stuffed and much china is not perfectly white. Bone China for example, I tried to fix a handle on one and it looked grey when done. Brian

Worth a go. Thanks

Andy

I haven't got a note of that but I have noted that acetone is used for cleaning prior to gluing.

TV programs such as the repair shop show old glues being removed and practically invisible restoration quality glues being used to repair china/porcelain. Perhaps consult a museum restoration type web site to see what they use.

Different products seem to be used for a clean break and one where filler is required.

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Probably OK. I prefer to use the slow setting stuff myself it gives you a lot more time to adjust and it is ultimately stronger once fully cured. It goes through a very runny phase just before it cures which allows most of the bubbles from mixing to escape.

The quick setting epoxy is just a bit too quick for my taste.

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