Problem with a Neff gas hob here at handyman towers
One burner designed for a wok wont light. All others fine.
The electronic ignition seems to work OK, the hob won't light properly from a match either.
Part of the ring ignites with a very small flame, but nothing more.
Removed the cast ally ring guessing it might be blocked, soaked it overnight, washed in dishwasher, prodded with paperclip - still not working.
Don't want to get over involved as its gas, but any ideas?
Burner ring looks like this;
My experience from over enthusiastic cleaning, presumably from Mrs Handyman, is that the injectors can be blocked by hardened cif or similar cleaner.
In my case, after removing the burner ring and exposing the injector, a small wire opened the blocked hole and all was well again.
+1 Only half the problem is blocked holes in burners. Crud also gets into the injector and unfolded paper clip in the hole should clear it.
Is the burner thoroughly dry, especially if the burner is redirecting the gas through a pipe/channel? A small amount of water can stop the gas flow to part of the burner. Dry the burner assemble out over another of the burners.
Anyone knowing Mrs Handyman would never accuse her of over enthusiastic cleaning :-)
I'll have a prod. Ta.
The gas comes from a very small nozzle below that into the centre hole, its blocked with fat or the control knob is bust. Clean the nozzle with something none metallic as its usually soft brass and you don't want to make the hole any bigger as it will then burn rich and kill you.
Thanks to both. Duly prodded and now it lights, but not as high as it was. I'll prod again when it cools down.
I doubt that the injector hole is a big as a paper clip, the hole for the injector on an old back boiler might have been but that was 15 kW not 3 - 5 kW(ish) of a wok burner. I'd use something softer and finer perhaps stripped back copper CW1308 or a single strand from alarm cable.
This is true but I found if part of a burnere would light it didn't take long for the water to be driven out nnd the whole burner light. If it is water there might be flame burning with a bit more "force" as the water evaporates and forces the gas through faster.
Please, nothing as large as a paper clip. The holes are normally ceramic but can be brass.
Only use a wire that will comfortably go through the hole.
In the past I have removed injectors to give them a soaking in solvent. Probably not necessary here.
I've also known crud to accumulate in the pipe leading to the injector such that it blocks periodically. If so, remove the injector and open tap fully to blow out the crud before replacing the injector.
Is it safe to remove the injector & pipe without turning the gas off? Will the control knob do?
I am not Gas Safe so bear that in mind.
I have always relied on a control knob to turn off the gas. If you think about, a stove would be dangerous if it was faulty.
In the instance of my blocked jet, the pipe was fixed. Otherwise I wouldn't have any difficulty in removing the injector, or a combination of the injector and pipe if it made access better.
Obviously, depending on the age of the cooker, the control knob can be accidentally turned on allowing a large volume of gas into the room.
More recent stoves have flame sensors such that really can't happen without intent.
In the days that Prinus stoves were used by campers, you could buy "prickers" for clearing the nozzle. Very fine wire on a handel.
But they were far from soft wire.
I'll take back the paper clip - I still have the little cards with 3 sizes of fuse wire. The last time i unblocked an hob injector I found that one of the thicknesses of wire was just right.
I'd already tried the paperclip before I read the warnings. It was like a wizards sleeve.
Sounds as if all worked out well.
Fuse wire is a bit softer!
David Lang scribbled
It's blocked.
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