Myson Kick Space Heater

Hi all
More Qs on the kitchen refurb project for anyone using kick space heater(s).
ISTR previous posts (long ago) complaining about the inaccuracy of the stated output figures for kick space heaters. I have a single storey extension for a kitchen (5m x 3.6m x 2.4m ceiling height) and anticipate needing 2.3Kw heating capacity for cold start up. Cavity walls (3 external) with some polystyrene cavity insulation and pitched roof which will be insulated to 300mm.
The largest heater is the 800 model which (in normal mode) is a little light on this figure. Does anyone have experience of these to advise please? Should I be looking at 2 smaller heaters to achieve the heat requirement and spread the heat? I am reluctant to do this due to cost and also as I have a pre-routed 15mm supply - not sure if that will serve 2 heaters. Another Q is regarding noise - is this an issue, or are they reasonably quiet in operation? Finally, do they have built in stats for fan control, and if so, how would they go on with 2 units in the same room? Any other gotchas relating to these heaters?
TIA
Phil
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
TheScullster wrote:

We have one but I'm not sure that I can offer much useful advice other than to try it and see. Ours does a good job of warming our kitchen and with the fan on low, the noise is very unobtrusive. Indeed it's easy to forget it's on. On high it warms the kitchen quickly but we're well insulated and really don't need much extra heat. It is a bit noisy then so you wouldn't want to leave it on that setting for long periods, just for a boost.

Given the high cost I'd be tempted to just try the one. If it isn't adequate for the coldest days, supplement with a conventional electric kickspace heater.

Ours doesn't have a stat but I guess there's no reason one couldn't add a wall stat to control the power supply.

Not so much a gotcha but a feature, they seem to have a pipe stat that stops the fan operating if it's in heating mode so that the fan won't run until the CH kicks in. The fan will stop automatically when the heating turns off at night.
Tim
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
"Tim Downie" wrote

Thanks for that Tim.
A couple of other things spring to mind: Are they simply free standing - held in place by plinth grill mounting? Do you tend to get very localised heat, or does it spread well? How big is your kitchen and are there obstructions like an island anywhere?
Phil
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
TheScullster wrote:

Dunno. I didn't fit it. ;-) What I do know is that they're fitted with flexible tails so that you can pull the heater our for servicing/repairs if necessary.

Seems to spread well.

No obstructions but our kitchen is open plan with a dining lounge area so it's hard to compare sizes.
Tim
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

I am also planning one and found the makers brochure wasn't clear at the time about a pipe stat. I asked Myson and they confirmed that the fan switches off if the CH pipe goes cool
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Tim Downie wrote:

I reckon that part L makes a room stat mandatory, just make sure it can cope with switching the load of both fans.

Make sure the plinth on your units is deep enough. My kitchen fitter had to lift mine an extra few mm to allow enough clearance (after floor tiling).
Chris
--
Chris J Dixon Nottingham UK
snipped-for-privacy@cdixon.me.uk
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

I fitted one (the 500 model) roughly ten years ago and it has worked faultlessly until last year when it just refused to work. Normally the fan thermostat only kicks in once the central heating is up to a reasonable warmth. I don't see why you could not fit an external stat to the supply cable if you so wanted.
I had the false cupboard base out last week and noticed that the flow pipe was hot but the return was only lukewarm so probably an air lock somewhere in the return pipe which is going to be a bugger to get to (carpets & floorboards up) - grrrrrr.
My kitchen is roughly 5.5m x 4m and I notice the difference in temperature now it's not working, even with the heat coming through from the rest of the house so now that it's not working I realise that it was efficient for the space at the time.
I have just bought an electric only model from Ebay, new, for 20 so may try that in it's place.
Franko.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Aren't you rushing into an assumption about an air lock?.
What about - partly blocked heater matrix in the Myson? Lockshield needs opening up a bit?. Pipe needs flushing?
I would be inclined to try and link the flow and return with a piece of pipe, remove the Myson and flush it- and run the heating through the pipe to see if it flows properly. Why should it be an air lock?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Thanks John, I'll try that at the weekend and it could well save me the hassle of fitting another. ps: Note to the Scullster, I screwed mine to a couple of short pieces of melamime to raise it by 20mm or so as it made it easier to cut the slot in the plinth without a slim sliver that would probably snap when refitting the plinth. It is not fixed to the floor but when you screw the faceplate/grill on it holds it in place well.
The noise from the unit is unobtrusive in slow speed but quite noticeable in high speed.
The other thing I have found is the fan only option for summer use is a waste of time for me but it may be of some benefit in a smaller room.
Franko.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

I guess the Myson is the lowest point in the heating system - therefore scope for heavy gunge to settle.
My thoughts include: Remove - flush. Drain gunge from pipes. Add Fernox. Balance system
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Had a bit of a bonus this morning, my winning Ebay bid of 20 for an electric model 500 turned out to be the hydronic model, exactly the same as my last model so will be fitting that this weekend and cleaning out the old one for use as a spare. Well chuffed ! Franko.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Re: Myson Kick Space Heater

I have found them to be very good space-saving heaters. In my experience the flexible hoses block very easily. I guess the flow rate through the matrix is fairly low and it is at the lowest point in the system. Things are very much better now that I have managed to get the system quite clean but still I find that particles migrate there and stick and quickly build to a point where heat output is noticeably reduced. The standard 15mm flexibles have a very small bore; are there any larger ones available I wonder?
Connections are provided on the terminal strip for an external thermostat.
Mike
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Recognising that others who have replied find these to be quiet I find ours to be noisy even in low mode. It's not the sort of noise you immediately notice but when it stops I find it's such a relief IYSWIM. It is effective though, it's our only heating in a 4m * 3m kitchen (a 600 wide model) and it does the job well. Ours is connected to a room stat which, from memory, is provided for in the wiring connections. The heater has permanent power and the fan can be turned on even when it's cold although I'm not sure why you'd want to. The heater has a pipe thermostat inside it and turns the fan on automatically when the pipe is hot enough and the room stat is calling for heat so it starts up a little while after the boiler starts and carries on a little while after the house heating goes off.
There are a couple of downsides to know about: 1. Noisy 2. The main switch has on/off/auto settings and sometimes ends up in the off position because it's been knocked which leads to a cold kitchen. 3. It allows the same amount of water to flow through it whether it's on or off so when the room is up to temperature it's acting as a bypass which seems a bit wasteful to me especially as ours is on a longish run of its own.
The "heat carrying capacity" of the various pipe sizes is well documented although I don't have it to hand - google this group I'm sure it's been discussed, if not I know that the manufacturers list it. At a guess though I can't see why a single 15mm pipe wouldn't be happy supplying two kickspaces - they're not that powerful.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.