The dining area of my kitchen is built over a crawl space that's enclosed by
cinder blocks like the rest of the house. In the basement, there are two
openings to this crawl space, but they're only 6" high x 18" wide. I assume
they were put there for ventilation purposes, since they're useless for
anything else. The area in question juts out from the main kitchen, and is
In winter, the floor is ice cold, so that dining area is useless. I believe
the traditional first step for dealing with this is to lay a plastic vapor
barrier on the soil underneath, followed by fiberglass insulation. The vinyl
flooring needs replacement, so I could also rip up the wood underneath in
that area and have total access to do the work. Replace the sub-floor
afterward, install new vinyl or tile, and it's done.
BUT: Someone suggested an interesting alternative: When the vinyl flooring
is removed, drill access holes in the sub-floor and pump the space full of
foam. It's already a form of plastic, so it should form its own vapor
barrier. And, it'll insulate. Progress could be checked via the access slots
in the basement. Makes sense, but there's always a "gotcha".
Your thoughts, please.
Did you know that termites find that foam is a perfect pathway to
get to what they like to eat without being seen? They just love
it and it is so easy to make their little tunnels through, that
you probably won't even notice anything until the floor falls
On Feb 29, 1:37 pm, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
If there were insects that ate concrete, I'd have them.
With a 1/16" gap between the slab and walls, it might have well been a
dirt floor. Didn't slow the termites down one bit. It's all fixed
now, but what a mess.
As to your original problem, you should just install fiberglass
batt insulation between the floor joists. That would go a ways
towards eliminating any coldness from the floor. BUT, the floor
is most likely not the problem as it is rare that a floor will
allow a room to become too cold. Most heat loss is from the
walls, ceiling, and especially windows. I will bet that this
alcove has windows on three sides, doesn't it?
One wall's got the garage on the other side. Viewed from the garage side,
the whole wall consists of some sort of masonry. (firebreak?) The other two
walls each have a window. In the attic, there's plenty of fiberglass over
the ceiling. It's a 1956 house, though, so the socks I'm wearing are
probably thicker than what's in the walls.
Didn't follow the whole thread, but particularly if the crawl space is
ventilated and the floor is solid, I can see it being a significant heat
The hADt term doesn't care in which direction dT is... :)
Cut out a couple more cinder blocks to get proper (temporary) access
to the space.
I assume that once through the block there's enough room to work?
Install fiber glass roll (cut to fit) with vapor barrier up (if you're
in a heating climate, which sounds like you are)
The foam sounds like a quick & easy way to do the job but process
control would be tough and having the foam bridging from soil to floor
would be asking for trouble (sub type termites)
A 12 x 12 space wouldn't take much time or $'s to fiberglass if you
had a helper cutting & supplying material......but filling it
completely with foam would be pretty expensive
I'm with you- I <hate> crawlspaces, especially shallow ones. Almost
didn't buy this place because of the (thankfully deep) crawl under the
addition, but talked myself into it because of the low price and basic
good condition of everything else. I really need to wall-insulate my
crawl down to the footer, but the access hole is borderline for my
oversize body. And natch, although the addition is badly designed, the
poured-wall foundation is done quite well. Replacing that
installed-backwards basement window that is the only access from outside
would cost me several hundred for concrete cutting, just like the hole I
had to pay for from original basement to extend HVAC out here and get
rid of wall furnace.
!8" to 24" is a bunch of crawlspace clearance.
You've only got ~9 joist bays. If you plan the work & lay it out
properly there won't be any "hugging the fiberglass".
Once you have access to the space, the stuff would be up in about an
hour or so..
If don't want to DIY......you could pay someone to install it for
you; you cut, they install.
Still way cheaper than foam.
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