Had just slapped in a re-charged battery - the motor spun for a second and then nothing. Could it be the carbon brushes? No experience of repairing electric motors, and everything seems to be 'disposable' these days... Thanks for any suggestions....Peter
My Makita 18v Ni-Cd Drill-driver just died
Jan 24, 2014
11 Replies
Could be...
Makitas usually have brush change ports visible on either side of the case near the back - typically round and black with a slot for a coin or screwdriver to turn and release each brush cover.
Thanks John - mine doesn't seem to have those - suppose I will have to crack open the body - do you think brushes are the likely culprit? Peter
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If not, try searching with the model number, thus:
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Are you sure it's not the battery that's at fault?
Richard
Only the 'proper' Makitas. The ones the sheds sell don't have that.
A sure sign that the brushes are going is excessive sparking prior to failure. Did you experience that?
Richard
How much use has it had?
Mine is still on its first set after ten years of intermittent heavy use.
Maybe the fuse (protection circuit, just out of warranty fault generator) in the battery has gone? Have you tried another?
- or the charger?
Thanks for suggestions. The thing was not sparking, and went from running well to nothing. The batteries and charger are ok I think. Perhaps something has failed in the gearbox - if there is such a thing? Will check brushes first though...
Had just slapped in a re-charged battery - the motor spun for a second and then nothing. Could it be the carbon brushes? No experience of repairing electric motors, and everything seems to be 'disposable' these days... Thanks for any suggestions....Peter
1) Check voltage at battery terminals.. 18v is a clue. No voltage means dead cell of broken link wire, or charger kaput. Check output on charger. If charger has a tell tale LED for charging what is it doing when you insert the battery ? (Read the legend on the charger for details of LED status lights) 2) Check the terminals inside the drill for the battery, not uncommon for a link lead to break away. 3) Shell cases are easy to work with, BUT Makita have the chuck held on with a left hand threaded screw usually at the base of the chuck inside, you *might* need to remove this first to open the case. 4) There is a thermal overload inside, in 30 years I've never changed one, but have had issues with brushes sticking 5) You may need to drill through the side of the casing behind the chuck with a 4mm drill through to the chuck spindle to put a dowel into the hole to hold the spindle still while you remove the screw in the chuck (This is a proper Makita technique) 6) If the chuck turns by hand and you can see the commutator turning there is nothing wrong with the gearbox (If twin speed type drill) 7) Did I mention I have been Makita trained ;-)Join the Discussion
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