I've wired up a telephone extension. The wire is routed through some
drywall and pops out the other side in the room where the box is going
I've got a plastic surface mount box (combined with a telephone/ADSL
dual socket front plate).
To begin with, and until I get more confidence with cutting holes in
the wall, I'm going to surface mount this. Given it is drywall I'm
not sure the box I have could be recessed anyway - wouldn't it just
fall into the gap? What would keep it in place?
The box has various dimples to indicate drilling points. I want to
drill them without shattering the plastic. Is there any particular
advice on doing this?
There are 11 of these points around the rear which is nice. I presume
two should be enough for a firm fitting...
Thanks in advance,
You get a special drywall back box - these have lugs to engage and grip the
back of the plasterboard whilst a front lip prevents it falling through.
It's not hard to cut PB - mark around the drywall back box, making sure you
are clear of any wall struts. You can get away with a stanley knife,
cutting progressively - or use a hand held hole saw and a drill on 2
I just punch them out with a small screwdriver and a light tap with the palm
of my hand.
Generally. If you are not confident of your fixings, use 4, but 2 are
usually OK for a telephone plug.
Thanks. After some consideration I think I will go this way -- all
the other sockets in the house are flush, and I want to avoid this
sticking out any further than the skirting board (which it will do if
surface mounted). Usual furniture considerations...
I've held the back box up to the light now and can see that they are
"weaker", as are various points arounds the side. So this should work
nicely. Although this seems redundant now!
I'll pop down to B&Q in a bit to grab a 85mm dry-line box. From
memory though, when I was last there they only had these in metal. I
presume I can mix a plastic front plate with a metal back, given that
this has been used for the electrical sockets!
I popped down at lunchtime and got one. To be precise, I got 5 ---
they were completely sold out of the single boxes for some reason, and
I only got the five-pack by hunting behind the shelves!
It isn't a fancy one with spring loaded lugs but looks like it will do
I had to pick up some screws as well -- bizarrely, the fancy ADSL/
telephone filter faceplate I bought came with screws which fit its own
I know what you mean. I have one of these though:
(The dual socket on the far right)
I've decided to go for this solution as although I could fit the NTE5
one on the master (thus filtering all the telephone sockets...), I
wanted a point in the study which would serve both ADSL and a phone.
Anyway, I've tested the above splitter tonight and it is working.
I've also made the hole in the plasterboard, by way of stanley knife
and metal ruler (I'm going to have to use better tools next time
though, I think it was more luck than judgement that everything worked
out). Backbox fits great. I haven't done the final wiring yet
I do need to adjust the backbox slightly... it's not straight by just
a few degrees (if that). What's the best way of gently rotating it?
Just filing the plasterboard at the sides? (I know that the ideal
solution would have been to get it straight first time).
Fair enough - Solwise seem to have changed their terminology! In the old
days they would have called the ADSL-NTEFACE a faceplate, and your device
would have been a slave socket with filtered and unfiltered outlets, or
Fine - but you'll also need filters in any other sockets where analog
equipment (phones, faxes, etc.) is plugged in. Using a filtered faceplate
(old definition!) in the master socket would have been a better solution
technically - but you would then have needed digital extension wiring to the
study in addition to the analog wiring.
I wouldn't have - and didn't - recommend a Stanley knife for cutting a hole
in plasterboard, although it's fine for scoring prior to dividing a large
sheet into two. A small sharp saw is required for what you were doing.
If the sides of the hole are not horizontal and vertical, you will have to
make the hole slightly bigger to square it up. Try to remove as little as
possible. You may find that you can rotate the faceplace *slightly* in the
box - to get *that* straight even though the box isn't. Slacken the screws a
bit, twist the faceplate in the appropriate direction, and re-tighten the
I agree with your first statements but the end is not
completely correct - all the wiring is "analog", it's just
that some carries the broadband RF signals as well as the up
to 4Khz telephony signal.
With the Solwise ADSL-FFP85D filter the OP fitted, he could
still install a master faceplate filter and run the unfiltered
side from the new master faceplate to the Solwise filter and
the filtered side to any other phone sockets. You can get
master faceplate filters that have both filtered and
unfiltered IDC connectors on the back e.g.
There is no need for any filtered telephone wiring (your
"analog wiring") to go to the Solwise. You simply wire through
the unfiltered, combined broadband + telephony signal, wire
(It's not "digital wiring", as you state) and the Solwise will
split off the telephony part of the signal for local phones.
Replace the obvious with co.uk in 2 places to mail me.
Sounds good. I may do this next. My only concern is playing with the
existing extension wiring - it's pretty tight in the Master so not
much room for error when stripping and re-clamping down in the new
faceplate. I'll have to take a closer look.
In other news, some gentle filing has got the study extension box nice
and level now, with no gashes. Just a case of tidying up the cable
firstname.lastname@example.org, in article <1177150083.097074.142680
Dont strip the wires when installing them into an IDC
(Insulation Displacement Connector)... These are designed so
that the IDC blades cut through the insulation and into the
*single-core* wire core to form a gas-tight joint, that should
have been cold-welded. If you are re-terminating wires, then
you need to move the wire a mm or so further on from the end
so the re-termination is at a different point in the wire.
Normally, wires should be long enough to allow 3 repairs,
However, I have seen several that were "bar-tight" that
required removing a few clamps to give enough slack.... Also,
you may find that if the original wires were routed in through
the back box, re-routing them directly to the front plate may
give enough slack and also allow the (correct) removal of the
faceplate to access the test socket whilst automatically
disconnecting the house wiring. Just don't touch the two
wires connected from the incoming line to the back box and
ensure there are no other wires connected to these terminals.
One further point - if you do connect the unfiltered signal
through to your study, then connect only *one* pair, normally
to pins A and B on the back of the faceplate, to carry the
signal - never connect the "pin 3" ring wire, since this
provides a source of interference and isn't needed. The
filter you install in your study will have an inbuilt ring
capacitor to provide pin-3 ringing locally. Likewise, the
master faceplate filter incorporates a ring capacitor for
telephone sockets down-line of this filter, with their wires
connected to pins 2, 3 and 5 on the faceplate filter.
Replace the obvious with co.uk in 2 places to mail me.
If you wish to be pedantic, yes. But 'analog extension wiring' is a
convenient way to describe wiring connected downstream of the filter, and
intended for analog equipment. Likewise, 'digital extension wiring' is a
convenient way to describe an unfiltered extension, intended for ADSL.
What you say is perfectly correct, and probably reasonable to do in the OP's
case since he's installing new wiring. But in the general case, it defeats
the object of using a filtered faceplate in the master socket which is to
separate the signals as early as possible and eliminate any adverse effects
which dodgy extension wiring may otherwise have on the ADSL signal.
Yes indeed - but in cases where there's any doubt about the quality of the
extension wiring it's safer to run a *dedicated* unfiltered ('digital' in my
parlance) extension just for ADSL. If you don't, there's little point in
having a filtered faceplate in the master socket.
Not neccesarily. Some extension wiring is in such a mess that spurious
connections and wiring make ADSL unuasable whilst all the wiring is
connected. A filtered faceplate means the ADSL only has to use one
pair of one leg of this dubious wiring rather than bouncing up and
down all of it. It can make a difference.
Well ok - but you could confuse the hell out of anyone coming after you if
you have filtered and unfiltered extension wiring from your filtered master
faceplate, but the unfiltered is not dedicated to ADSL - but is carrying
voice as well, and subequently separated by further downstream filters.
If you loosen up the hole, you can hold the thing straight when you
screw the front plate on - once tightened up it all clamps together.
If you have any visible gashes, take thefront off, repair and sand the
plasterwork, and paint - you can paint over the box - and reapply the
On Fri, 20 Apr 2007 19:21:13 +0100, Roger Mills wrote:
Both types are available:
Of course there is confusion caused by calling these things "ADSL filters"
as the ADSL *isn't* filtered it is the analogue phone connections that are
Dave. pam is missing e-mail
It's a bit more complicated if you want to use a metal box as they are
normally set into solid plaster/brick, etc. But it can be done. Make up
some wood battens slightly longer than the sides of the hole and glue to
the back of the plasterboard lined up with the edge. You next need to
drill some holes in the sides of the box as there won't be any in the
right places. Then fix through these holes with screws into the wood
battens. When you fix the front plate to this it will clamp together and
be much stronger than a dry lining box - and neater looking too. If you
have to decorate anyway you can use screws to hold the battens to the
plasterboard - but best use brass screws for this job as steel will rust
after being filled over.
*It was recently discovered that research causes cancer in rats*
Dave Plowman email@example.com London SW
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