I've had a few double-glazed window panels installed in wooden frames about
8 years ago. There's now quite a lot of condensation between the panes. Is there any system for removing this, short of replacing the panels?We're in a conservation area, so any replacement would have to be the same sort of thing - double-glazed panels in wooden frames.
IIUC replacement of the sealed units is the only way to really fix this.
You can get replacement sealed units relatively cheaply if you go to a suitable supplier. Fitting them correctly will also minimise the chances of them re-misting too soon. As long as the frames are still in good nick there is no need to replace them (and even if they are not so good, they are repairable being wood!)
Replacement is the only viable solution. Look up your warranty. Units used to have a 10 year guarantee although most manufacturers have stopped this due to too many claims but you might just be lucky. Decent replacement windows should have glazing beads retained by screws. Still not trivial to remove but easier than puttied in ones. Re-seal with the correct mastic for the job and fit new stainless screws (quite cheap these days from screwfix). Units are very heavy and you will almost certainly need an assistant and some vacuum sucker handles to position them in the frame.The units should rest on hard rubber/plastic shims available from your glazier.
Good luck
bob
The message from "GB" contains these words:
Realisticaly? No.
Why replace the whole thing? Take the failed units out and run them along to your local glazier and get a replacement.
The usual source of this problem is that the bottom edge of the sealed units have been immersed in water and this has crept inside the units - usually due to a lack of drainage for the space around the sealed unit.
It is essential that there is drainage from this space for any moisture that creeps behind the glazing beads. If there isn't any, you may want to think about cutting drainage sipes/having a joiner add them.
You will need to replace the sealed units (quite inexpensive), mounting them on new butyl rubber tape (the glazier making the units, should be able to supply), replace beading - some people also run a bead of clear silicon sealant around the bottom edge and a bit of the sides of the glass where the beading/butyl tape/glass joint is - just to help discourage moisture ingress.
Very comprhensive information here:
Thanks for all the very clear info.
I'll see if I can trace the builders on the off-chance there was a guarantee on the units - unlikely.
I take it that there is no hope of drilling a coupe of tiny holes in the interior panes and trying to dry these out? Two of the windows are quite big - say 2' x 4' and would these be toughened glass? The other two are just over 1' x 2'.
I remember watching one of the local glaziers making up a sealed unit a few years ago. He filled the spacer bars with some dessicant material. An excellent idea, except that he kept the dessicant in an open bin in his shop, and it must have been full of moisture. Of course, by the time the unit was completed, there was no way to tell.
Where do you go to to get units that will have been made with a bit more care than that?
Minimal likelyhood of successful drying existing units. The spacers in DG units already have dessicant built in.
No option but to open the wallet I'm afraid!
Bob
The message from "GB" contains these words:
Toughened glass will have an etch in the corner to say so.
Your chances of drying it out are miniscule. The metal strip that spaces the panels is filled with silica gel to absorb any moisture that gets in. It's been swamped already and will need to be dried before you can get the result.
|The message |from "GB" contains these words: | |> Two of the windows are quite |> big - say 2' x 4' and would these be toughened glass? | |Toughened glass will have an etch in the corner to say so. | |Your chances of drying it out are miniscule. The metal strip that spaces |the panels is filled with silica gel to absorb any moisture that gets |in. It's been swamped already and will need to be dried before you can |get the result.
Perhaps somebody knows why caravan double glazed plastic windows work OK? They have a hole to the *inside* with a plastic plug containing a tiny hole, again to the inside. There is no silica gel evident.
They simply put the plugs in with the window warm and dry. Should moisture appear later - the trick is to remove the plugs on a warm dry day allow the inside to dry out then refit the plugs.
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