Some of our double glazed windows are misted up between the panels. As
short term solution (while we get the money together to replace them) i there any way to demist them so we can see out ??? Someone suggeste drilling two holes in the corner of the panes and extracting the "we air" with a vacuum cleaner. Don't know how I would drill glass thoug
-- SWW
This is what happens to ALL dg units in time - it can't not happen as the joints rely on flexibility which eventually is lost - seals break and air starts leaking in/out as pressure changes. The only answer is to replace them but it will happen again. Or put in single glazing which in the long term is far more cost effective (or less cost ineffective) than DG.
cheers Jacob
That's all true.
Do like we do. If it's only noticeable if the sun shines from a certain angle, or if there is a particular temperature gradient between inside /outside, etc ...
Just live with it.
DG
I wouldn't bother drilling holes in your windows. You could end up making them worse. Wouldn't a de-humidifier not work more effectively. You can buy them reasonably cheap and that would draw any moisture to it like a magnet ;-)
The message from SWW contains these words:
You are only going to replace the glass, aren't you? Not the frames as well? Just the glass is quite cheap. Drop into your local proper glazier (not a double glazing specialist unless you want them camping on your doorstep for evermore trying to flog you new windows) with sizes and thickness. They'll give you an estimate on the spot.
If the glass it toughened (look for the etch mark in the corner) then forget drilling it, it'll go BANG!
But isn't it more prone to condensation than double glazing? And noisier? And less secure? And colder?
I don't think I'd be replacing DG with single galzing any time soon.
Martin
I recovered a laminated unit on which the seal had been breached by ingrowing Ivy using an aquarium pump, a lunchbox, and some silica gel - details here :
frame, (generally easy unless security-taped in place) then drill though the top corners of the sealing/spacer strip, and do the blowing-dried-air-through trick. Seal afterwards with a glob of neutral-cure silicone. By taking the unit out, you may also be able to spot where the seal has failed, generally a patch losses adhesion with the glass, and this is often visible. Reseal with silicone.
Yes but you can wipe it off - you don't have to reglaze the window! And if properly designed it will drain away to the outside and each window acts as a dehumidifier. And you get less condensation in other parts of the building.
Yes true but only if you live in a noisy place - the only plus of dg is noise reduction but it's not the only way.
SG just as secure as you choose to make it. DG has been noted as too secure in that in the event of fire escape can be difficult esp if plastic also - which can weld/melt shut. Plastic + DG is a fire hazard.
Yes and no; the net saving of cost of DG against heating bills is negative. DG is an expensive way of maintaining temperature
I wouldn't if you've already got it- you might as well get your monies worth, but when it fails you should go for single glazing - can last for hundreds of years with very little (but regular) maintenance.
cheers Jacob
One common cause of failure is the drainage channels in the frame being blocked, so the sealed unit ends up sitting in a puddle of water along its bottom edge. Check that if you take the sealed unit out.
But they ARE waterproff you know.
BTW that Norman Wisdom poster is a bit of a comedian. I'd put him with IMM and Derby' crew.
You can drill the mastic and drain the Silica Gel, Heat the gel in an oven and then reload it. Seal with mastic again and save up for a new glass as has been suggested. Whilst the unit is out of the frame measure it (in millimeters) to order the replacement.
They usually last 7 to 10 years or more.and tend to fail only when smacked or strained. A prolonged effect of being in a wind swirl might have one particular window failing more often than others but suspect it has been badly fitted first.
The glazing needs stiff rubber pads as support in the frame, also the pads act as wedging to keep the window square (opening sashes for example, have the pads on the bottom hinge side and on the side opposite the top hinge.)
If silicon has been used on the pane it will stick to the glass chemically, so beware its overuse there.
And the plastic window industry is a disastrous joke.
cheers Norm
Hmm. I replaced a Magnet wood one which rotted while you watched with a UPC one from Screwfix for DIY installation. It looks like new when given a quick wash down, while the Magnet one would have been painted twice in the time. I don't like the look of them at the front of period properties, but for a utility use like this in a kitchen, I'm well pleased.
How do you get the de-humidifier inside the DG unit then?
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