I'm would like to tidy up some pointing at the edge of a paved footpath. I wondered if the mix proportions make much difference to the final dried colour. If people think it does I will make some test samples and let them dry to get the best match.
I wouldn't fret too much.
>
I wouldn't fret too much. In a few months algal growth will cover up any differences.
Not that you'll be able to match it anyway unless you can get the same sand and cement as the original. (Which itself will have changed colour)
They do, as does sand colour. 3:1 is good for paving pointing.
NT
The grade of sand makes a big difference. Some builders sand has a large quantity of fine iron oxide coloured particles which make a very potent orange dye. You can buy silver sand which is specifically selected for lack of the pigment. (So is sandpit sand, but that doesn't make a good bond as it's supposed to be more worn/rounded particles.) Sharp sand tends to have larger grain sizes (more variation and more irregular) and not as much pigment as builders sand, but it's more difficult to use for brick laying (particularly the pointing), although more authentic for matching old mortar (particularly lime mortars).
Then you have a choice of regular (grey) cement, or white cement. There's also the option of adding (white) lime, although that's usually done more for better matching physical properties of lime mortar walls than for just colour.
There are also powdered cement pigments which can be bought. Things like soot and ash used to be used too, but they do impact setting time, and strength.
In all cases, if you are trying to match colour, you need to make up some tests, and leave them to set and dry before you can compare colour.
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.