It has replacement jets and I have read up on replacing these and adjusting as necessary.
I note the dangers of LPG being heavy and have pretty much decided on getting someone in to fit it for me, how much should I expect to pay for this, how long does it take?
Could I save much money by doing some of the work myself? If so what should I attempt to do myself? I imagine the best idea would be to do at least some of the pipework and just get someone in to connect it up. I read that flexible piping cannot be used so I guess I would need solid pipe to the outside, then some way of onnecting solid pipe to the 'hose' which is connected to the bottle.
If somebody could describe to me the gear I will need to buy and which bits of this job I can perform myself I would be grateful.
There was a thread about this a couple of weeks ago.....
There will probably be a chorus of 'If you need to ask then you're not qualified or capable to do this youself'..... but.... in my experience, fitting gas hobs is a fairly simple exercise.
The pipe is readily available, and is supplied 'soft' so it can be easily bent to go round corners. I can't recall, but it's probaby
10mm, - and is generally available (by the metre) from good hardware stores that sell the replacement gas cylinders.
The plastic sheath protects the pipe where it passes through walls etc.
The pipe is soft when supplier, but quickly 'work-hardens' as you bend it - so you want to think carefully about the desired run - and only bend it once !
The cylinder end of the pipe will connect to a (say) 1 metre length of orange flexible hose (slips over the copper pipe and secures with a hose clip. Far end of the rubber hose connects to your regulator - again a push-on fit with a hose clip for security.
Inside the house, you'll need appropriate fittings to go from the copper pipe to the gas hob. You may be lucky, and find that it's all included with the hob - or you may need to go up or down in size - compression and solder fittings are readily available (try caravan shops if you hav difficulty locating what you need). If compression, use the correct 'gas-rated' ptfe tape - not the common-or-garden water stuff...
Replace the gas jets (one per burner) with the LPG ones.
Once it's all connected - turn off the taps on the hob and turn on the regulator. Check every joint with leak-detecting spray - or soapy water. Remake joints if necessary.
When all is OK - try to ignite one of the hobs. It'll take a while for the pipe to be purged of air - don't panic !
Once you have the burners lit, make the necessary flame adjustment as described in the installation instructions - without this you'll have little control over the flame...
As I say - not a big deal....
CAVEAT If you're not confident - DON'T DO IT ! Provided it's a fairly straight run from the bottle to the hob then it shouldn't take a qualified tradesperson very long at all - and you'll have the peace of mind that having a pro in brings.....
Hi, I am confident I can connect pipes without leaks, I did my own central heating. I have a little more 'respect' for gas as it can do more than stain the ceiling!
Are there any special considerations/fixings for where pipe gas enters/leaves the wall?
In the past I've fed the 'bare' copper pipe through a short piece of plastic 'overflow' pipe - just to protect it from the rough edges of the brick / concrete block.
However - I'm guessing that this new fangled plastic-coated stuff is designed to eliminate that requirement....
The builders here simply poked the pipe through the hole. For tidyness and to keep the insects out I later gave it a good application of mastic...
You might also want to consider a twin-cylinder automatic changeover valve system - but the gotcha here is that you may not realise that you are running on the second cylinder, until that also expires (usually on a Sunday - often a Bank Holiday weekend !)
FWIW - we found that our 47kg cylinders - running a hob and a gas oven, tended to last about 18 months each...
I usually try the "live" cylinder as I walk past - the difference in weights is plain to feel. Our changeover valve has a "flag" to say it's changed over, too.
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