Low voltage plug/socket for underwater in pond

[Chris Green]

I want some simple plugs and sockets suitable for connecting 12 volt pumps in a pond. The pumps always come with rather short wires and so, at present, I have to solder longer wires on and carefully heat shrink it all.

It would be much handier if I could simply put a plug/socket on the wire from the pump and have ready made supply leads with matching plug/socket on them.

So, I'm looking for simple, small plugs and sockets that can be used under water (only a few inches down) and it's only 12 volts and quite low current, maybe 2 amps maximum, they're only little pumps.

Any ideas or recommendations?

[ARW]

Then you need a IPX8 rated connector.

The only stuff I have ever used that really did the job was the connections that use a jelly to enclose the connections and are not plugs and sockets.

eg

or you can buy the boxes with no terminals and just the gel and use wago connectors if you prefer.

Maybe you can find an IPX8 plug and socket but google was not my friend.

[Owain Lastname]

Always used to be Bulgin Buccaneer

IP68 and IP69K

Some are available from CPC

Owain

[Andy Burns]

[ARW]

Wrong colour.

[Chris Green]

That's overkill, it's a mains (i.e. 240v AC) rated connector for three core cable. I would work OK except that the wire from the pump is two core and not a suitable size to fit into a connector like that.

[Chris Green]

Coo, expensive though. ... and again they're aimed at mains voltage (or more) not low voltage - ELV in fact in formal naming terms.

[Tim Lamb]

How conductive is this pond water?

>

[Chris Green]

Do you really want me to check? :-)

Probably not very as it's fresh water though it has quite a lot of 'dirt' in it so it won't be as non-conductive as distilled water.

[Brian]

You could look at the kind of connectors used ‘behind’ vehicle lights etc.

Typically, these use O rings to seal where the wires enter the connector and where the two halves mate.

I’m not sure if they are up to being submerged.

Personally, I’d use a proper connector designed for the job, even if it was intended for 240V. Running ‘under rated’ isn’t an issue in this case.

[Chris Green]

Yes, I found those on Amazon too. Does anyone know if they're any good?

Yes, that's the issue really.

The trouble is that they're big and relatively expensive, almost certainly bigger than the pump!

Two separate plug/socket pairs for single insulated wire would be the ideal.

I guess may I had better just put up with re-soldering and remaking each time, it's not *that* difficult or frequent. It's just that over the 24 years we've lived here I seem to have done it rather often, pond pumps have a limited life!

[Robin]

idiot boy question: does anyone know the likely life of a couple of Wago lever connectors in fresh water with 12V and low current?

[Brian]

No but pond water almost certainly isn’t as ‘fresh’ as it might be in terms of corrosion*. Plus, you have the galvanic action.

• look how any metal left outside corrodes. Ponds not only collect rain but the have the products of rotting plants, waste products, …..

[Brian]

You could use simple crimp on bullet connectors and apply heat shrink with adhesive lining. With care, you could ‘save’ the one on the power side when the pump failed. The crimp connectors are pennies and the adhesive lined heat shrink not that expensive. Use a heat gun or hair dryer to shrink it evenly.

We used to have a pond and pump. Ours was mains. The pump was about the size of a tin of beans. The sealed connector I used was about 100mm long and 20 mm dia when assembled.

[4587Joey]

Stainless and gold don't. Nickel doesn't either.

[Chris Green]

That's not that much different from what I do now except using crimp connectors rather than soldering. Trouble with crimps is that they quite bulky compared with the thin wires involved so making satisfactory heatshrink seals over them isn't so easy. That's why I've been simply soldering and sleeving as the soldered connections can be quite slim.

My 12 volt pumps are much smaller than that! Mostly they're just 2cm cubes. At present I have three pumps, one for a fountain, one for a waterfall and one for the filter. I suppose I could use one bigger one but it's never very easy to balance the flow.

[Brian]

True but few connectors are made of stainless. Connectors are often given a VERY thin plating of gold or nickel. If it is damaged, the metal below corrodes and….

My previous trailer was second hand. The junction box where the multi-way cable from the tow hitch connector plug was divided up to feed the various lights wasn’t sealed when I bought it. The various connections to the lights were in a terrible mess. That was just from water that had got in a few small gaps.

[Brian]

Ok, we had just one pump, a UV filter thing, no fountain. The pond etc was here when we bought the house. It was a bit of a pain due to filling with leaves etc. We gave the fish away, drained it, and filled it in.

[Robin]

<snip>

I don't doubt the exposed metal would corrode. Question was more how long before the electrical connection fails (given Wagos make a gas tight connection)? And they're cheap enough to replace as routine maintenance whenever the pump goes.

[Theo]

I've used similar motorbike-style connectors on bike wiring. They're fine for keeping the rain out, but I wouldn't expect them to last underwater. Since they're under pressure, water will get in eventually.

Can you put the connectors in something that will provide additional protection? eg use the above but pot them in a box of silicone? They wouldn't be immediately removable but might be easier to re-make without soldering. The potting would prevent pressure springing leaks in the inner connector. Perhaps, if not silicone, a small metal box of wax: heat the box, melt the wax, fish out the connector. Assuming you're never going to boil the fishpond :-)

Theo