Mixing high & low voltage wires in electrical conduit?

Is it allowed to run both 110v wire (either THHN or Romex) and low voltage alarm wire (e.g., 4 conductor 22 gauge) in the same 1/2" rigid metal conduit?

I probably will have one 2-conductor #14 Romex wire for overhead garage light plus a couple of alarm cables for the window, door, and heat sensors.

Thanks

Reply to
blueman
Loading thread data ...

No. I think the code is you must run the same guage wire for the highest voltage running through the conduit. So if your running 14 guage Romex for your HV, you must also run at least 14 guage for the LV. Thats what I did for my garage. I ran 14 guage for the electrical, then I ran 2-14 guage for my alarm circuits.

Reply to
Mikepier

I think the insulation on the low voltage has to be rated to insulate the highest voltage in order to do what you want to do.

Reply to
joe

I'm not an electrician but some thoughts... unless there is a risk of the conductors becoming overheated for some reason I don't see why not. I think when you have two or runs of NM in any kind of conduit what you want to avoid is the cables pulling the same voltage, or you might have inductive heating problems? I think the NEC goes into detail about not pulling two cables through conduit that will be on the same circuit??? If I am correct I think you would be OK with what you described.

Reply to
sleepdog

I'm not trying to be a usenet cop or anything but speculating about electrical issues does no one any good. If you know the answer, great, post away. If you don't know the answer, then just let someone who does post it.

ml

Reply to
kzinNOSPAM99

Agreed. The NEC dictates a lot of things that wouldn't be obvious to the average person via speculation.

And this goes to pretty much everyone in the thread, not just this reply. If you can't cite the proper code, you probably shouldn't respond.

-Tim

Reply to
Tim Fischer

In my city you can't, and Brinks (who's brand alarm I have) wouldn't install in the same conduit as line voltage.

There's probably very good reasons for this, the main ones I'm thinking of is interference with the low voltage devices, and inexperienced do-it-yourselfers getting zapped by the line voltage wires by mistaking them for the LV wires.

There are at least three things I can think of to do what you want.

You can use wireless alarm sensors. Not my favorite idea, but many folks like them.

You can run another conduit specifically for low voltage devices. That's what I did when I renovated my patio, using 1" conduit. I can run CAT 5, coax, alarm, LV, and anything else I want except line voltage, which has it's own conduit.

You can run the low voltage wires underground without conduit. You can use either low voltage or line voltage wire that's rated for underground burial, and use metal conduit from underground to inside your house and garage, which should make any code inspector happy.

The last two depends on the construction around your garage, of course. If you can do both, I suggest the separate conduit, where in the future you can run additional wiring with ease, and they'll be protected from moisture and such.

Pagan

Reply to
Pagan

Because there is always one answer to every question.

Reply to
sleepdog

Okay. What's the question?

May want to try quoting some of the text you're replying to so that others can follow along should they choose to.

Reply to
G Henslee

Sounds like good advice. Asuming the National Electrical Code applies, this is not permitted with separate wires. With cables it is up to the Authority Having Jurisdiction (ispspector) who, I think, would not be happy.

As noted the line voltage circuit could produce noise in the LV cable through capacitive and inductive coupling.

Bud--

Reply to
Bud

You can also read all the messages in this short thread

Reply to
sleepdog

You can be ignored too, zipperhead. It appears that concerning electrical topics, ignoring your stump stupid lazy ass is in the works already.

Reply to
G Henslee

Apparently not in your case.

Reply to
sleepdog

See dummy? You can quote using google.

Reply to
G Henslee

Whoa there... let me get this straight...

So you're saying that it's not OK for me to speculate from the viewpoint of risk avoidance in inductive heating in electrical circuits (which I made pretty clear I was doing, because I'm not an electrician), bit it **IS OK** that he should be doing his own electrical work when the OP seemingly doesn't know where to find or how to open an NEC manual or other suitable reference to determine requirements for running conductors in conduit??? Who gives a rat's ass about citing the correct code chapter and verse if you don't know what the hell you are doing to begin with???

I'm going to bake a cake and I don't know how to turn the oven on. The mixing spoon is too cracked and I'm short three eggs. If the OP insists on doing the work himself and comes to usenet for help, well... that's his problem.

For the OP,

formatting link
sells residential wiring textbooks and inspector checklists for the uninitiated for about $60 each. They are based on the NEC. Easy to follow and read. They expire every three years. 2005 is a good time to buy since the NEC was recently revised.

Reply to
sleepdog

I didn't want you to get lost again

Reply to
sleepdog

Who are you talking to this time?

Reply to
G Henslee

This is what the code says;

725.55 Separation from Electric Light, Power, Class 1, Non?Power-Limited Fire Alarm Circuit Conductors, and Medium Power Network-Powered Broadband Communications Cables. (A) General. Cables and conductors of Class 2 and Class 3 circuits shall not be placed in any cable, cable tray, compartment, enclosure, manhole, outlet box, device box, raceway, or similar fitting with conductors of electric light, power, Class 1, non?power-limited fire alarm circuits, and medium power network-powered broadband communications circuits unless permitted by 725.55(B) through (J). Section 725.55(A) specifically includes cables of Class 2 and Class 3 circuits. Jackets of listed Class 2 and Class 3 cables do not have sufficient construction specifications to permit them to be installed with electric light, power, Class 1, non?power-limited fire alarm circuits, and medium power network-powered broadband communications cables. Failure of the cable insulation due to a fault could lead to hazardous voltages being imposed on the Class 2 or Class 3 circuit conductors. (B) Separated by Barriers. Class 2 and Class 3 circuits shall be permitted to be installed together with Class 1, non?power-limited fire alarm and medium power network-powered broadband communications circuits where they are separated by a barrier.
Reply to
gfretwell

Electrical workers in US make decent wages compared to banana pickers in Guatemala.

Reply to
G Henslee

An electrical switch needs to be rated for the application.

Reply to
G Henslee

HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.