Long connector to join into a ring main??

Much more than wiring which isn't twisted.

Reply to
Jane
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Not with a properly designed pipe joint.

you only get away with it on pipes because the corrosion

Wrong.

Reply to
Jane

Or you could fuse the spur to 13A, if that would be sufficient current?

Reply to
Andy Burns

It's actually very easy - if you have a bit of finer wire to bind them:

This is not necessarily an electrical joint but the principle is the same:

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That's how it was taught decades ago.

Another trick which I have used with heavy stranded wire for a moderate current connection in a car is to use a ferrule, lightly crimped on the wires with pliers then filled with solder.

Reply to
Tim Watts

I have now worked out that by cutting the spur wire it has disconnected not one but two double 13A sockets!

I think this is due to the previous (builder) owner or his sub contractors being tight / stupid.

Then again, Maybe it?s not a spur, maybe it?s the ring and it?s lost continuity. But I would have thought a (trusted) sparky I had in some years ago to replace the CU would?ve spotted that.

Going to have to do more investigations.

Reply to
cpvh

Ever made anything with a PCB? I'm sure some do bend leads over to hold the component in place before soldering, but then many don't.

But it is important the bits don't move as the solder sets.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

So, it turns out that as originally wired it was.....

Double 13A socket on ring

Single 2.5 T&E from it to under worktop single 13A socket

Then to Double 13A socket above the worktop

Then to another double 13A socket above worktop!

Haven?t yet checked if there is anything daisy chained from that!

Bastard Builder!

Reply to
cpvh

Cut and clench pliers are the tool for that. Insert component through PCB, apply pliers to cut the lead to length and deform it to prevent it pulling back through.

SteveW

Reply to
Steve Walker

Or just make it a deviation to the regs.

Reply to
ARW

Does anyone bother? Going to make repair (if ever needed) more difficult too. Despite having built maybe thousands of PCB, I've yet to see a component fall off. ;-)

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

Bending leads over is a widepsread practice. They tend to fall off before getting soldered.

NT

Reply to
tabbypurr

No need to bend them over. Just spread them slightly so friction takes the weight.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

Why not use a proper crimp and omit the solder?

Reply to
invalid

Because I was talking about soldering, not crimping.

Reply to
Tim Watts

So no need to bend them, just bend them instead. Marvellous advice. We've also got TNP who insists on sanding what doesn't need sanding despite being physically unable to do it, and Mr. Rumm who reckons a power tool that's bobbing up & down numerous times a second should be practical to sand with. Is there something in the water round here?

Reply to
tabbypurr

Spreading the leads doesn't involve a bend, if you think about it. More usually altering an existing one slightly.

If you prefer to bend the leads flush to the track, carry on.

I'm not asking for advice. Just saying how things work for me.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

?Just make it a deviation to the regs?

Hi Adam, please explain.

You make it sound as though you can do what you like and just say / write ?This bits a deviation to the regs?

I?m sure that?s not what you meant.

What did you mean?

Thanks

Chris

Reply to
cpvh

lol

why would I do that?

it's worse than I thought.

NT

Reply to
tabbypurr

You want to see an avionics grade PCB come back from vibration testing ;-)

(usually in a bag with an assortment of loose components in it!)

Reply to
John Rumm

You just have to come up with a justification for doing it the way it is, that a competent sparky would agree was reasonable in the special circumstances.

Reply to
Rob Morley

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