Morning,
I am looking for a light switch which allows me to set a time for coming on and going off, but which ideally would also allow me to override easily at any point.
Anyone have any ideas - must fit in a single pattress box.
Thanks in advance, Al Reynolds
Have just found this:
But that is the sort of thing...
Al
Jesus. I hope you're responsible for floodlighting the Eiffel tower or something. 600W is usually utterly inappropriate even for the most obscene interior or exterior lighting in a domestic property. Perhaps you should work on reducing the load, rather than finding a larger switch?
Apart from that, you'll need some sort of immersion timer with the right features and 13A ability. Alternatively, an external relay.
Christian.
600W? Of lighting? Crumbs. My 16'x21' kitchen is lit with 480W of buried spots, which I think is way over the top and desperately needs worked on to reduce (anyone know where you get those light-pipe thingies, and experienced folk to fit them?). What on earth are you lighting that needs 600W behind one switch?
Sorry - I should have said that it was a maximum potential load of 600W. It actually only has 300W at the moment, but some of the fittings can take higher capacity bulbs, so I ought to have a setup that allows for that possibility. These are external lights, and are spread far and wide about my property, so that I can see where I'm walking at night.
Al
300W is certainly better, although you should consider using CFL type bulbs for this application, to reduce usage further.
Personally, I would wire this up differently from a traditional lighting circuit. I would use a DP switched immersion timer (or any suitable light switch and relay) and have independent RCD protection, too, run from a 3A MCB on the consumer unit. This reduces the effect of faults in the garden circuit on the rest of the system.
Christian.
Then I'd say you need to make provision for using a device which includes a relay, which precludes one which will just replace a standard standard size switch in a standard depth box. You could, of course, use a small capacity timer that will fit the existing box to switch a relay situated elsewhere. Perhaps in the roof void etc or anywhere convenient.
Yup. For convenience, it would be easiest to use a timer which fits the switch box, and use that to switch a relay. A suitable 20 amp one can be bought from the likes of Maplin for under a tenner. The circuit the relay switches can therefore be independant, or perhaps a fused spur off a ring main - or have its own RCD etc.
Good point about the CFLs.
Using the DP switched timer separately sounds OK, but I would need to keep it vaguely accessible so that I could override it if necessary.
Hadn't thought abour RCD protection (partly because it wasn't RCD protected before). I know it's a requirement that outside-accessible sockets are RCD protected but does this also apply to outside lighting?
Al
Not to my knowledge. However, the regulations are very keen not to require RCDs in cases where they could be appropriate. In all but the most extreme cases, the decision is left to the designer.
In this case, the RCD will be subject to nuisance trips, particularly if the IP rating of the fittings isn't up to the job, but I think it is worth the occassional trips to get some warning of problems.
Christian.
What's the best way of stopping any nuisance trips from the exterior lighting tripping the main house RCD? I have a split-load CU and the three lighting circuits are currently on separate MCBs on the non-RCD-protected side of the CU.
Thanks, Al
Leave the circuit on the non RCD side but replace its MCB with a RCBO. That way it has a RCD of its own and is hence separated from the main RCD.
And if the consumer unit doesn't have any RCBOs available for it, you can install a separate RCD in a 2 way enclosure to protect an individual circuit. You certainly don't want exterior electrics on a shared RCD.
Christian.
On Tue, 7 Dec 2004 09:25:38 -0000, "Al Reynolds" strung together this:
Cheers, that might do it. Al
In message , Al Reynolds writes
LOL my kitchen has 550W of mains voltage halogen, and its NOT a big kitchen !
Thanks Christian and Dave.
OK - my last (maybe) question(s). I would quite like to use the switch I found at toolstation:
Will using this switch to control a relay which in turn controls my lighting circuit mean that I can then use the CFLs, as they are not directly controlled by the time switch?
If so, then (a) can I run the switch relay circuit and the relay-controlled lighting circuit from the same 6A MCB/RCB0 in the CU? (b) can anyone recommend a suitable relay (with a web link if possible)
Cheers, Al
Yes.
Yes.
Personally, I'd be inclined to fit a DIN rail contactor. It can share an enclosure with the external RCD. A cheap "shower" or "garage" consumer unit with RCD incomer could be used, and the MCBs thrown away. Not the cheapest solution by any means, though.
Christian.
Yup. The circuit loading will be the same, as the relay takes near zero current.
N24AW @ 4.99
I think if you order it from a shop you'll avoid postage and minimum order costs.
This has 1/4" spade connectors so you could use the crimp on types, or solder if you have a suitable iron.
I'd fit it inside an adaptable box with knockouts which you'll get from any wholesaler or:-
BX333 @2.99
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