Light switch location

[Bert Coules]

Bob,

Yes, it might. I'll have a search around. Thanks.

[Roger Hayter]

And use chocolate block, yes. Note, if you drill a hole the edge will need careful rounding if plastic, or a grommet if metal. It is surprising what can cut over time and slight movement. The advantage of course is that a home-made flat plate could sit behind the plaster line against the back box leaving room for the flex. Need more information before one of the electricians can say what is the minimum flex size, for instance, what is the circuit circuit breaker rating?

[Roger Hayter]

K1090, but the front outlet one doesn't seem to exist, though if it did it would be 9mm thick, MK say.

[Roger Hayter]

You can just join them in one side of the choc block or dedicated flex connecter and connect the flex brown or brown sleeved blue to the other side. If you've got two or more lights those are probably the switched lives to the lights, but if not this is probably a live connection to another circuit daisy-chained in a rather odd place. Probably the latter if there are no neutrals around. As long as they remain connected to each other and go to one (either) side of your new switch all is fine.

[Roger Hayter]

And some flex retention, not just the terminals! Easiest is to tie a knot in the flex inside the back box.

[Bert Coules]

Roger,

Thanks for that. It's not only neater, it also solves the possible problem of trying to fit two stranded cables into one terminal of the light switch.

[Steve Walker]

How about just replacing the switch with a wireless version and then you can fix the new switch wherever you want?

Such as:

SteveW

[John Rumm]

In which case go with the extended wire option.

[John Rumm]

You can get flex outlets where the cable exit is in the side of the plate not the face. That would be better suited.

How about 13mm and side exit:

(see page 2)

[ARW]

If there is enough room for a blanking plate then there is enough room for a flex outlet plate!

[ARW]

Agreed.

It would be normal to also extend the earth to the new switch.

[Bert Coules]

Unless I'm reading it wrongly (which is entirely possible) that has a bottom exit rather than side, though that would be fine. Thanks for the link.

[Bert Coules]

I know, but it's good to have it emphasised.

I was going to ask about this today. The info on the circuit breaker is:

B6 6000/3

5905s 230/240V -

[Bert Coules]

Low-tech but effective. Thanks again.

[Bert Coules]

That certainly seems to be the best all-round solution.

[Bert Coules]

I've seen blanking plates which consisted of a single flat sheet of metal, and was thinking that a plastic equivalent would be very easy to construct.

[Bert Coules]

It's an interesting idea, thanks for the link.

[Roger Hayter]

Depending how deeply the back box is embedded in the wall it may be possible to lower the cover by a few mm by chipping away the plaster (or whatever) round the outside, and chasing the lfex (if it is cover edge exit) into the plaster for a couple fo centimeters.

[Bert Coules]

Yes, I thought about that. The box is set back a little, and if I could be sure of achieving a good result I'd try it. Hidden or not, I do like things to be neat and tidy.

[Roger Hayter]

So 0.75mm^2 should be OK. But if is very cosily insulated behind the bookcase, and for mechanical strength, I'd be tempted to use 1mm^2. Should still meet your