Light switch location

[Bert Coules]

I'm grateful for all the advice in my previous light switch thread.

Another question has arisen: I'm positioning a large fixed bookcase in front of an existing light switch: I was going to move the switch to an exposed bit of wall but is there any regulation-based reason why I shouldn't put it on the end of the bookcase itself, with the pattress and wiring closed off inside the case with a small timber box? It would mean losing about an inch of shelf space but would be far neater than hacking a new hole in the wall.

Many thanks.

[Bob Minchin]

Well it is not normal but why not?. Swap the switch plate for a blank one with a cable outlet including some sort of cable grip, use some FLEXIBLE sheathed cable to the new switch box location with a gland and cable clamp into the box.

[Bert Coules]

Bob, thanks for that.

Given that the wiring will be totally enclosed (allowing for enough slack to permit the bookcase to be moved slightly if it were ever necessary) couldn't standard non-flexible cable be used?

[Bob Minchin]

No, because your bookcase will move by however a small amount and the solid core cable will eventually fracture.

[Bert Coules]

Bob,

OK, that makes sense. Many thanks.

[Graeme]

In message , Bert Coules writes

Bert, I cannot answer your question, and cannot recall the exact details of your predicament, but have dealt with something similar recently, although mine was in a hobby room, where looks are less important.

Like you, the perfect place for a large shelving unit meant the unit just covered a light switch, and left little wall space between the unit and a doorway. I solved the problem by covering the existing switch box with a blank plate, and used an architrave switch, which is an ordinary switch, but half the width. I was lucky - the wall is plasterboard on studs, and the cable was long enough to reach the new position, which was only a couple of inches from the old switch. Looks quite tidy, and solved the problem perfectly.

[tabbypurr]

OK if you fix the bookcase to the wall. If you don't want to I suppose you could put the switch lead on flex & some sort of plug, plus add cordgrip at the switch end.

NT

[Michael Chare]

Is the switch on an external wall? If not would having the switch on the other side of the wall, perhaps in a hall be pratical?

[Dave Plowman (News)]

If the bookcase is fixed to the wall etc, fine. If it can be moved, the best way IMHO would to fit a suitable socket in place of the wall switch and run a plug and cable to the new switch position. So if the bookcase is moved, the plug will just pull out.

[Bert Coules]

Bob,

What would be the best way to join the flexible cable to the original solid core in order to extend it? If I run solid throughout I could use Wago connectors but they're not suitable, surely. Chocolate block? But is even that ideal for joining different types of cable?

Many thanks.

[Bert Coules]

Thanks Michael and Dave for your suggestions. In this instance, the other side of the wall isn't practical and the situation is also not ideal for an architrave switch unfortunately.

[Bert Coules]

The bookcase will be permanently (or as near permanently as makes no difference) fixed to the wall. Even so, I like the plug and socket idea but I'm afraid there won't be sufficient clearance for it. It would have answered my other question, which is how to join flexible cable to solid core (assuming that I do use flexible for the extended run to the new switch position).

[Bert Coules]

Graeme,

Thanks for your suggestion (for which I've also just erroneously thanked Dave: apologies to you both).

Unfortunately, an architrave switch isn't really practical in this instance.

[John Rumm]

The lever operated wago connectors can be used on solid and stranded. You could also crimp, or arguably use a screw terminal since it remains accessible by virtue of moving the bookcase.

(not convinced that the movement of a solid bookcase would be any greater than say that generated by thermal cycling on a reasonably heavily loaded circuit. Also while not "ideal" its not uncommon to see hard wired sockets etc inside wooden kitchen furniture)

[John Rumm]

If you want a plug and socket solution, one that could work is a variation on the way I normally wire under cabinet lights in a kitchen - typically placing s remotely switched 2A or 5A 3 (round) pin socket high up on the wall above the top line of the cabinet, so the wiring can be tested an finished before the cabinets are installed. The cabinet lights then just connect via flying lead and a plug.

You could adapt the process for your switching application. Replace the existing switch with a socket:

Then a flying lead that plugs into that socket connects to the real switch mounted on your cabinet. If you ever need to move the cabinet then its switch can just be unplugged.

[Bob Eager]

This is designed for the job.

[Bert Coules]

Thanks for that.

[Bert Coules]

John,

Thanks for that; I've been thinking along the same lines. I rather fancy that a solid-core/stranded cable connection might well be more potentially problematical than a continuous run of solid-core. After the initial installation I can't see that there will be any movement to speak of.

[Brian Gaff]

Are you suggesting just making a hole in the bookcase, if not then one would need to be damned sure it was firmly secured to the wall and a warning label put somewhere obvious for any future occupant I'd imagine! Brian

[Bert Coules]

Firmly secured it will be. A warning notice strikes me as overkill but it could certainly be done. Thanks.