Lead flashing - what do the codes mean?

The thickness, bigger the number the thicker the sheet is.

I'd go for code 4, unless you are very exposed in which case code 5.

I wouldn't I'd go to a builders merchant. But do you need to replace the lead? Can it not be redressed to the roof and the pointing corrected?

Ibs per square foot

AWEM

Oh so it is. I'd never twigged that very basic fact.

But for those who prefer less archaic units:

• ========================= *
• Lead sheet to BS 1178 *
• ========================= *
• Code Thickness Weight *
• No. mm kg/m^2 *
• ---- --------- ------ *
• 3 1.32 15.0 *
• 4 1.80 20.4 *
• 5 2.24 25.4 *
• 6 2.65 30.1 *
• 7 3.15 35.7 *
• 8 3.55 40.3 *
• ========================= *

Thanks all.

Been and had another look today and boght 6m x 150mm (code 3) - I think this will do the job nicely.

Regards

Simon

In article , Simon Hawthorne writes

How much?, most of the catalogues I have seen (not many) say POA.

Local builders merchant charged me £18.75 (weighed 13kg)

Si

Apart from builders merchants, both my local Wicks and B&Q stock at least some lead. Haven't compared prices, though.

In article , Simon Hawthorne writes

Thanks & for the weight too, approx 1.50 a kilo is a good for me as a guide.

I checked out Wickes:

S.

When you buy lead is it sold by weight or lenght? Cheers

Hi In my limited experience, it is sold by length, but the cost is worked out on weight..... Si

Don't forget the patination oil and lead sealant!

Christian.

I'm not sure properly designed and executed leadwork will need any sealant. After all its use dates back to somewhat before modern sealants - for that very reason.

I mean to insert into the brickwork. Obviously, you may also use mortar, but sealant is easier!

Christian.

Right. However, if doing stepped flashing, you're likely to have to patch surrounding pointing also. How well does lead sealant match this? Otherwise, it seems you'll still have to knock up some mortar anyway?

Being dark grey, it matches well to the lead. I imagine the match to your average mortar would be appalling!

In my case, I didn't need to touch the pointing. I needed a angle grinder to shift it, it was so hard and certainly didn't remove any more than I needed to.

Christian.

Right. I'll keep it in mind.

I keep forgetting not everyone has a Victorian pile where the mortar is soft. The pointing - once started on removal - is often difficult to stop. ;-)

Actually, I do. Some cretin repointed the rear elevation to the "extension" with a seriously strong mix. Luckily the front (and the rest of the rear) have escaped.

Christian.