Not sure it was great as in details but should cover the basic operation. ;-)
It will be the bit that looks like it's going into the carb somewhere, in the main airflow from the airfilter in (I can't really make it out from the photos).
Cheers, T i m
The carb will be the only thing between the air filter and the engine intake. They (usually) are in two halves, the gasket between the halves is the one that may need replacing. TBH new carbs are surprisingly cheap from China.
It probably doesn't have a needle valve as they would normally be associated with a slide throttle carb.
As mentioned elsewhere, you have to be careful about poking things though jets as you can easily open them out so a good spray with carb cleaner to try to dissolve any residues and dislodge any debris.
This will normally mean taking the carb off and getting it on the bench although you might be able to get sufficient access in place to do a basic clean of you can get any input filters off.
The bottom line though is if it runs well enough to cut reasonable length grass, that would suggest it was running reasonably well?
If it simply doesn't tickover smoothly but the revs hunt up and down it could be running properly?
Cheers, T i m
As a sort of aside, this talks of the springs and the other carb related issues as mentioned elsewhere:
I have a Briggs&Stratton-powered cheap genset.
It hunts (vroom-vroom-vroom-vroom) when not electrically loaded, i.e. very little mechanical load. Put a bit of load on it and it settles down.
OTOH, if you aren't sure you have attached the governor springs right: check that. I tried to replace a missing spring with random springs selected from the random spring box, and it didn't run anything like nearly right until I bought a (surprisingly expensive) replacement part. Lever length, hardness, spring length need to be spot-on, or very close. And there's usually a line of holes in which the bits hook, get a wrong hole and you have just set it to "perfect for a snowblower in the tropics" or whatever.
Thomas Prufer
spent 2 hrs trying to find out why my old revox turntable was hunting...until I put the heavy platter back on, and it settled down steady as a rock :-)
system theory and feedback stability mate. Too much negative feedback and a little delay causes oscillations.
It's why the EU is hopeless. Too much administrative inertia to respond to any changes. Not economic, not social, not medical...
You NEED localised feedback in any complex system with the minimum amount of overall feedback.
If its any consolation, most of the locals around here seem to have mowers that hunt most or all of the time and they cut grass fine. Brian
Lee Nowell explained :
No, don't do that, you will damage them. If any jets are obstructed, blow them clear with compressed air, or a tyre pump.
Two sorts of blockages happen in carbs.
1/. Bits of grit. Blow them out 2/. Gum from evaporated stale petrol or petroil. Rinse in fresh petrol
I had to do a rebuild on mine several years back as wife tried to cut a drain cover with it. :-) Once it was rebuilt I remember a similiar problem and although I cant now remember the specifics it was sorted by adjusting the spring tension and governor flap.
The most common failure IMHO. Modern bio-petrols seem to rot them away every 5 years or so.
Hi all,
I have now uploaded a couple of videos and another photo to the same place
There are 2 other videos with the engine running on fastest and one on slowest. Thought it might help to hear the engine running.
Thanks all for your help
Lee
That looks odd -- as in wrong spring or wrong place. But I have been wrong before.
Not unless you are prepared to buy a new one! IME, it opens up the way to many new ways of not running right, most with a racing engine, or one that dies under load.
Sounds pretty much OK, I'd say?
Does it mow?
Thomas Prufer
Or refuses to run at all. The springs/counter springs between the vane, actual throttle arm and the throttle control lever are a very dynamic system. There is very little corelation between what things are like with/without the engine running. Bottom line don't fiddle ...
one on >> slowest. Thought it might help to hear the engine running.
Aye, the slowest is hunting a bit, does that go away when mowing? Who uses the slowest speed anyway?
The fast seems OK. Does it hold speed when moving from cut/short grass to long grass with just a change in engine note as it throttles up to match the increased load?
My mower started hunting really badly (almost flat out down to almost stalling) and didn't settle down under load. One of the little flap valves made from the gasket between fuel tank and carb had got itself out of position. Repositioned and carefully reassembled and it's been fine since, 5 years or so...
TBH with the OPs mower it's borderline "it ain't' broke, don't fix it".
Sorry all for the delay in responding. The lawn treatment folks came the other day and put some pellets on the lawn which apparently needs to be watered in before mowing. Forecast is some rain this weekend so will try the mower next week and report back.
Glad to hear the mower in fast sounds ok. So fingers crossed it mows ok. There are some patches of longish thick grass so should give it a good test.
Many mowers these days don't have a user throttle even in the guise of a Tortoise and Hare lever.
They tend to be very weak springs which may appear to be loose.
I've found when doing this its worth buying a casket kit first.
In case you cremate yourself?
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