Laser levels for tiling a room....

On 19/01/2014 21:31, Tim Watts wrote:

Due to needing to keep the shower in use and the bath in situ until the last moment before ripping both out and installing a shower enclosure and then having it out of use for no more than 36 hours, I had to re-tile first above the shower line; then stop using the shower and tile to the bath; then wait 'til weekend remove the bath, install the shower tray and tile down to it. So all my tiling was done top to bottom, which took a great deal of care to keep straight and a laser level would have been useful!
SteveW
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On 19/01/2014 21:41, SteveW wrote:

easier to substitute a plastic sheet as "temporary tiling" between the time of installing a bath/showers and tiling bottom to top.
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On 19/01/2014 23:37, alan wrote:

I did consider that, but I didn't fancy anything that could be pulled down easily (3 young kids).
Also, I was installing a shower tray that has only around a 12mm lip and a pumped shower, so I needed to have the cubicle up before we could shower at all and since the side rails sit on the tiles for the full height of the shower, I wanted to have the minimum number of tiles to install after the tray went down, so I was always going to have to tile at least part way downwards.
SteveW
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On 19/01/2014 21:41, SteveW wrote:

You can buy 8x4 waterproof boards that take about 20 mins to fit. I would have fitted the bath and then those.
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On Monday, January 20, 2014 10:19:42 AM UTC, dennis@home wrote:

Ah yes "care home chic"?
Jim K
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On 20/01/2014 11:59, Jim K wrote:

I did consider white backed, heavily frosted glass panels for the back, but decided to go with tiling to match the rest of the room. Even If I had installed waterproof panels and then tiled over them after, I'd have had to spend time stripping off the plaster and getting the depth right, as the tiles would have to have matched depth with the rest of the same walls, as they are half tiled.
SteveW
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On 20/01/2014 22:01, SteveW wrote:

You don't tile over them, they are the finish. The ones I used were a sheet of "Formica" backed with ~10mm PIR foam. A "nice" marble finish.
They are 100% water proof and warm to the touch.
You can even get tile finishes.
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On 20/01/2014 23:27, dennis@home wrote:

But then it wouldn't match the tiles on the rest of the bathroom.
SteveW
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On Sunday, January 19, 2014 9:31:12 PM UTC, Tim Watts wrote:

that's what I use my eyes for ;>)
Jim K
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On Sunday 19 January 2014 22:12 Jim K wrote in uk.d-i-y:

I wear glasses and they have a curvature error across the horizontal (always have, assume it is intrinsic to my prescription).
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On Sunday, January 19, 2014 10:20:10 PM UTC, Tim Watts wrote:

er really? 12" away from a tiled wall?!?
shurely the width of the grout lines plus occasional use of a spirit level will shurely spot any out of true "creep" as tiling progresses?
I reckon it'll be faster than re-faffing with a laser level.
Jim K
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On Sunday 19 January 2014 22:27 Jim K wrote in uk.d-i-y:

No - more when standing back to check. 12" away I can only judge a few tiles.

I just found a laser line much simpler. I knew abloke who could cut metal by eye to be a perfect fit when welded. I cannot - I depend on tools :)

If you can...
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On Sunday, January 19, 2014 10:51:48 PM UTC, Tim Watts wrote:

yup guess so ;>) & IMHO the vast majority of tiling is done "my" way (without laser levels)
Jim K
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On Sunday 19 January 2014 23:30 Jim K wrote in uk.d-i-y:

Probably Jim - my successes at stuff I'm not a professional at are down to adapting for my skills (basically compensating for the lack of).
No, a real "pro" probably won't. If you can get good results, good for you.
For some of us, lack of skill/practise can be compensated for with tools. For me, the laser level is to tiling (and other things) as a Fugi tool is to siliconing (and my siliconing beats whoever did the Premier Inn down at Highcliffe!). If you go back on this group, occasionally there will be some sneering at the Fugi tools - saying an Aldi "special" is as good or noone needs anything other than a wet finger.
Sod that - some tools suit some people - it's not black and white. A few "pros" could do with them too :)
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Hmmmm so when you did that nice tiled bathroom at yours back in 2010? Did you use a laser then?
Jim K
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On Monday 20 January 2014 00:13 Jim K wrote in uk.d-i-y:

Good memory sir.
Yes. That was the main purpose of me getting it - but it found a load of other uses. Those were 10cm tiles (so a lot of horizontals that could accumulate error.
Now I've knackered it I have ordered a replacement.
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On Sun, 19 Jan 2014 13:19:13 -0800 (PST), Jim K wrote:

string is

I was wondering as well, the snag with working to a laser line is that when you are close enough to work you block the laser...
For getting the first critical level (the batten) right they are very useful after that I'd just measure up and put some marks every third row or so just to check things aren't drifting.
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On 19/01/2014 20:59, Tim Watts wrote:

But why? Once the batten is fixed and you are tiling over it why do you need a level at all?
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snipped-for-privacy@tesco.net wrote:

I had to mark the level of the bottom of the wall panels for a wet room. I used a level and a pencil to work my way round the room, cross checking by taking some levels across the room, and when I got back to where I'd started I was only 1mm out.
Bill
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On Saturday, January 18, 2014 10:14:41 PM UTC, newshound wrote:

pfft 6 ft spirit level & pencil serves many very well...

my case? SMS?
Jim K
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