No, but it gets around the problem of using a cheap laser to do the job rather than paying an awful lot of money for professional grade equipment.
Another way I found to use it, when I used it to lay out my workshop, was to make a target out of black rain down pipe, with some white paper at the back end. The pipe keeps the light out, enabling the line to be seen on the paper.
On Sunday 19 January 2014 11:47 The Medway Handyman wrote in uk.d-i-y:
That's probably true of most red line lasers. I set my guttering datum line at dusk.
Rotating is better (bright spot) and green is (usually) better, but more expensive. Then you can get ones with detectors that work even if you cannot see the laser!
The latter one might be very suitable for your type of work - at least outside.
I bought this
On Sunday 19 January 2014 16:58 ARW wrote in uk.d-i-y:
Is that a 3 line model? (2 verticals at 90 degrees offset and one horizontal line).
It's hard to be sure from their little picture...
If so - what's your opinion? I need to replace my broken Stanley CL90. (not much luck fining a green line version that is not stupidly expensive).
Tim
It's a self leveling cross with a switchable side vertical or as you say a "3 line model". Or if used in the non self leveling mode it can be used for guttering etc:-)
It was used in anger yesterday afternoon. The owner of the house could not believe that his 1907 house kitchen wall was a full brick level out fron the front of the house to the back of the house.
It seems to be better than MY broken CL90 but it has only had 3 hours use. Dunno what to do with the second vertical line ATM.
well ok then, that's another use to add to the list...
OOI why did that crop up?!?
Jim K
A bit of string and a weight is more accurate and it works for horizontals too.
If you're going to the US, these are available for a reasonable price. In the UK they're wildly expensive.
Not as easy to use correctly as the horizontal only model.
Hiya,
On Sunday 19 January 2014 20:23 ARW wrote in uk.d-i-y:
Ah - good. I'll piut it on the list. I notice it's on a special and there are 2 left in Tonbridge and 1 in T Wells and non for delivery, which suggests end of line (=bargain). Better make my mind up quick!
Like the CL90? (the switch stops it blinking when the level is past the pendulum's range to correct?)
I discovered I was the thickness of a brick course (quite thick in my house) over a distance of 4.5m.
A full brick is quite good going!
I have to admit - I used that once - floor tiles... Not a must-have for me, but very occasionally useful...
Thanks for that!
On Sunday 19 January 2014 20:50 dennis@home wrote in uk.d-i-y:
Except the laser can be mounted on a pole and moved around (eg for every couple of courses of tile when tiling a wall) whereas a string is much more buggering about.
why would you bother with either when tiling a wall? once the first row is on (on a temp batten) tile spacers and the tiles will keep things level?
Jim K
On Sunday 19 January 2014 21:19 Jim K wrote in uk.d-i-y:
It's good to guard against cumulative error Jim.
I noticed tiles have sligh imperfects arounf the edges and I'm sures these could add up to a wonky line...
Sockets on the kitchen wall. The floor drops at the same angle as the bricks.
Due to needing to keep the shower in use and the bath in situ until the last moment before ripping both out and installing a shower enclosure and then having it out of use for no more than 36 hours, I had to re-tile first above the shower line; then stop using the shower and tile to the bath; then wait 'til weekend remove the bath, install the shower tray and tile down to it. So all my tiling was done top to bottom, which took a great deal of care to keep straight and a laser level would have been useful!
SteveW
that's what I use my eyes for ;>)
Jim K
On Sunday 19 January 2014 22:12 Jim K wrote in uk.d-i-y:
I wear glasses and they have a curvature error across the horizontal (always have, assume it is intrinsic to my prescription).
er really? 12" away from a tiled wall?!?
shurely the width of the grout lines plus occasional use of a spirit level will shurely spot any out of true "creep" as tiling progresses?
I reckon it'll be faster than re-faffing with a laser level.
Jim K
On Sunday 19 January 2014 22:27 Jim K wrote in uk.d-i-y:
No - more when standing back to check. 12" away I can only judge a few tiles.
I just found a laser line much simpler. I knew abloke who could cut metal by eye to be a perfect fit when welded. I cannot - I depend on tools :)
If you can...
yup guess so ;>) & IMHO the vast majority of tiling is done "my" way (without laser levels)
Jim K
easier to substitute a plastic sheet as "temporary tiling" between the time of installing a bath/showers and tiling bottom to top.
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