Kitchen tap - you get what you pay for?

Looking to replace the monobloc tap in the kitchen that has died after ~5 years.
Possible replacements seem to vary in price from £30-£300. One we replace was around £60 IIRC. Don't want to pay through the nose for some designer/pretentious one - just good quality that will last 5-10 years of heavy use.
Does price have anything to do with quality? Any reason not to go for something like this one http://www.screwfix.com/p/swirl-single-lever-mono-mixer-tap-chrome/56601#
TIA.
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Can't you regrind the faces if its dripping, much less hassle as well as cost?
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On 12/02/2013 15:40, Mitch wrote:

Not sure what you mean by 'regrind the faces'?
The tap is not dripping from the spout, but has water coming from where the red arrow is pointing here (all the way around that point):
http://tinypic.com/r/3450msi/6
Immediately below the arrow and down to the spout is a small chamber that is constantly full of water...
I removed the little cap to reveal a small hole behind which, I assume, is a screw that releases the upper half of he mechanism. However, because it is full of water behind I cannot see a thing...
I suspect that it could be down to simply replacing a washer - if I manage to find one - are they standard?
Otherwise we will be happy to see the back of this tap - we never liked it - always felt cheap and nasty.
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"JoeJoe" wrote in message
On 12/02/2013 15:40, Mitch wrote:

Not sure what you mean by 'regrind the faces'?
The tap is not dripping from the spout, but has water coming from where the red arrow is pointing here (all the way around that point):
http://tinypic.com/r/3450msi/6
Immediately below the arrow and down to the spout is a small chamber that is constantly full of water...
I removed the little cap to reveal a small hole behind which, I assume, is a screw that releases the upper half of he mechanism. However, because it is full of water behind I cannot see a thing...
I suspect that it could be down to simply replacing a washer - if I manage to find one - are they standard?
Otherwise we will be happy to see the back of this tap - we never liked it - always felt cheap and nasty.
Go look in Selco.... That tap looks just like the ones they sell
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On 12/02/2013 16:14, Nthkentman wrote:

Sorry, that was not my tap - just a photo off Google...
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If I fit a mixer (like yours is) I always fit one with two seperate knobs [1], old fashioned but much easier to maintain. They do mixer versions for one sink hole. Most modern stuff is style over practicality without any consideration for maintenance. Not sure how your one works. Grinding is required when it wont stop dripping even after a new washer.
[1] Like this one http://www.screwfix.com/p/swirl-traditional-sink-mounted-mono-mixer-tap-chrome/27813
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I fitted this one a couple of years ago and have regretted it ever since. The swivelling nozzle thing is very stiff and doesn't seem to be improved by adding silicone grease.
--
Les

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On 13/02/2013 10:58, Big Les Wade wrote:

Thanks for the tip!
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See if the valve is loose. If not, turn off the water, take it out and use a bit of PTFE tape on the threads.

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On 12/02/2013 16:34, Mr Pounder wrote:

Forgot to mention that there is also a very slow leak into the cabinet below... I think the tap has to go, but back to my original question - do you get what you pay for?
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On 12/02/2013 17:31, JoeJoe wrote:

IMO there is little difference between basic taps and "designer" taps. The quarter turn ceramic cartridge taps cost a small fortune to repair as opposed to the traditional type with a washer.
--
Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

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Can you still buy the washer type?

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Yes loads available, eg Screwfix.
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The water may be coming into the cabinet due to the seepage from the tap. This if the tap is a bit loose on the sink. As for getting what you pay for: my new kitchen tap cost 150. It is crap.
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snipped-for-privacy@mail.com says...

No consolation (or help) I know, but our caravan has a similar kitchen tap - which leaks from the same point (and has done since new).
It might be possible to sort out the leak.
On ours, that plastic cap is on the top. Removing it gives access to a screw which holds the lever in place (yours must do the same). Remove that & the upper chrome barrel can be lifted off. Below that is the bit with the spout. This has a rubber O ring/seal at top and bottom - lifting carefully whilst rotating should allow you to remove the spout bit.
Inspect the two rubber seals (Lord knows if you can get replacements) - and all parts for hairline cracks. I have seen suggestions that you can pack out the recess with PTFE tape before refitting the seal to make a tighter fit. Lubricate seals & gently re-assemble.
It will probably still leak.
--
Sam

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JoeJoe wrote:

It's often possible to do this by going outside and looking through the kitchen window.
Bill
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Not if you are 15 floors up.
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On 12/02/2013 19:43, Mr Pounder wrote:

A mirror?
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Mutters.
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On Tue, 12 Feb 2013 15:55:46 +0000, JoeJoe wrote:

Making the washer seating faces smooth and flat again so the washer will seal against them again. An assumption has been made that the tap actually has washers ...

You later say that isn't your tap but if yours still has that "lift 'n waggle" operating method then I'm pretty sure they use a ceramic element of some sort and "regrinding the faces" isn't an option.
Does the spout on your swing lift and right or is it fixed? It's not unknown for the seal to fail around the spout allowing water to get where it shouldn't. It may be as simple as replacing an O ring or two, assuming it's not worn too much.
But as you don't like the tap replace it and to some extent you do get what you pay for. A cheap unbranded (or own brand) tap from a DIY shed will be of lower quality than a branded one. Dig about on the net and see what you can find, a maker that gives the specs (min/max actual pressures, flow rates, etc) for their taps is likely to be a better than a cheapie.
--
Cheers
Dave.
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