this is my current setup:
thanks
I'm not sure what you're asking. There's no *law* which forbids you from doing your own kitchen plumbing - but only you know whether or not you have the necessary skills!
How far is the copper from the wall? I know that the B&Q cabinets have a 70mm service void at the back of them - so if they are less than this, no need to move them closer to the wall.
Mark.
On Fri, 8 Feb 2008 08:28:36 -0800 (PST) someone who may be benpost wrote this:-
I doubt if anyone could give you any real advice, unless they know your existing skills.
A number of readers of this group could certainly make the changes which are likely to be necessary. As you asked the question, it may well be that you do not currently have the skills to make the changes. You may be able to learn these skills, though that may take longer than you are prepared to wait.
Plastic waste pipes are relatively easy. Have you ever done any work on copper pipes, do you have the tools to work on them? If the answer is no and you want to do the work yourself then I suggest buying a pipe cutter and a couple of spanners. Use compression fittings rather than crappy pushfit ones.
I'm not a plumber but I have done this kind of work before. I've made mistakes and learned and then redone it. The picture shows that a plastic tee joint has been used so you know you can rely on them. And they allow copper and plastic to be used together. If you want to do it fast buy speedfit pipe and fittings. If you buy the pipe on a coil take the time to straighten it out over your knee before installing. I would use steel flexi hoses to connect to the taps. And if you can afford it buy flexi hoses with built in isolator to add to an isolator further down the line.
Arthur
The message from Davao contains these words:
To my mind NOTHING is simpler and better for a beginner than Conex compression fittings. And though plenty are cheaper, nothing is better for a professional either, for that matter :-)
Pros use solder fittings. More reliable than compression and a fraction of the price.
Plumbing's a doddle when the room's empty, and flexible connectors and adjustable wastes have made the final marrying up a lot simpler than it used to be.
The message from "Dave Plowman (News)" contains these words:
A fraction of the price, certainly.
More reliable? In some situations and circumstances. Reliability is an interesting question with more recent solder alloys. In some under-sink jobs you'd be fortunate to do a good job using NO compression fittings
-- access for soldering can be very restricted, though granted you can solder up a sub-assmbly off-site.
However, the main point in this question relating to someone starting off with a small plumbing job and Conex fittings are simple, reliable and virtually foolproof, in my experience. No, I don't always use them, but certainly in one particularly troublesome high-maintenance installation they have proved less troublesome than any other fitings.
What's the particular attraction of Conex compared with any other compression fitting? Is it simply that their knobbly rather than hexagonal shape means that you can use a wider variety of butcher's tools with which to do them up?
The message from "Roger Mills" contains these words:
No butcher's tools here, other than the occasional Footprint wrench. However, in a really inaccessible position the Conex backnuts can be easier to tighten or undo, when approached from an awkward angle
Well made fittings The BSP thread for the backnut is an excellent thread, well-suited to the job, tightens very smoothly The olives are a slightly different pattern and tend to make a better and more reliable seal. They also deform in a more controlled fashion.
Then don't use them. The older type is still available.
I'd say you need less room to wield a blowlamp than a pair of spanners?
They may well be easier for someone starting out - but my comment was about you saying they are best for a pro.
I can't see how properly made solder joints can be more troublesome than compression?
thanks for all the information,
first of all the pipes coming out of the floor are just under 70mm. i havent ordered a kitchen yet so i should check the service gap when i do. i also suppose i could install the under sink unit a few cm away from the wall if need be, or do they have to be right against the back wall?
so my plan would be to stop the water supply from the mains and boiler, then use a pipe cutter and adapters to convert to flexi plastic pipes. the pipe with the plastic splitter goes to the hot tap, then onto the bathroom hot taps.
i will also replace the grotty plastic waste pipe.
thanks for the tips i'll see how i get on and let you know.
A pair of pipes bracketed to the wall can easily run behind most base units. You notch the side panels of the carcass to accommodate them so that the unit can go right back to the wall, and the backing board is set forward sufficiently that nothing shows from the front. Go and have a chat with the kitchen "expert" at your local B&Q. They're pretty clued up with basic stuff IME. You're not the first to have pipework behind base units :-)
=2E.. but check the small print on the back of your water bill. You might find that your water company requires you to notify them of any change to the plumbing in your house (my father's did) and that it must conform to certain requirements. You might choose to ignore this of course.
Robert
The message from "Dave Plowman (News)" contains these words:
Real life comes up with some unexpected facts.
Problem area -- caravan site toilet block. Very heavy use in height of season. Lessons learned quickly include
Damage is always worst in the "Ladies' "
Vandalism is always worse in the "Ladies' "
Electronic switches have a lifetime of weeks rather than years -- but old-fashioned Columbus pneumatic switches are virtually indestructible
Solvent-weld waste fittings are the normal choice of professionials but they don't stand up to use in that location whereas, surprisngly, push-fit ones do
Damaged tube can be swapped out much quicker when it's fitted with compression fittings -- doesn't even need to be unclipped from wall.
Ah. You cam make things fool proof. Idiot proof, even. But not c**t proof?
I'd be inclined to have all the plumbing behind a false wall. Made out of
3/4 steel plate in this case. Sanitary ware to match.
Sanitary ware? Just put the shovels on shorter chains.
The message from "Dave Plowman (News)" contains these words:
Quite. And in the days of a septic tank drainage system it's amazing how the blockages often seemed to be Tampax. Quite big enough for a single one to block a 4" pipe :-(. Can't actually prove, of course that the odd trainer was from the Ladies'.
Rather difficult to fix the problems then. But a great deal has indeed been put behind 4" concrete block walls with access from the rear.
Have you seen the price of Stainless Steel toilets? But the lifespan of washbasins has increased dramatically since they went on to legs and bearers. And, surprisingly, the American washer and dryer have survived a few seasons and actually earned their keep -- to my surprise.
I'd say the cabinets need to be pretty much against the back of the wall if you want the over-hang on the front of the worktop to match the other units.
Mark.
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