Joining PVC pipe

I have used the ubiquitous car body filler for this and it has stood up six years in a well supported situation so far.

Twist the pipes as you work them together and slap it on.

Roughen the inside and out surfaces to provide a key.

Silicon sealant.

If you make a wooden former with a taper on the end it is possible by heating the pipe til soft and pushing the former in to expand the pipe to the size you need .Then you can use solvent cement.

These work well. Goes up to 38mm, but I'm sure it would stretch another .5mm

You'd also probably get it with

The 36mm is 1 1/4 solvent weld size, so will go in that end, the 38.5mm is only a fraction smaller than European 40mm size, so should work in the other end.

I would be very dubious about the effectiveness of using Jubilee clips to hold a flexible sleeve onto thin wall waste pipe.

Colin Bignell

I would first look for two adaptors, one for each pipe, to some common standard, such as a BSP thread, and use those to join them.

If you can't find suitable adaptors, fill the gap with bath sealant and cover over the join with an adhesive lined heat shrink sleeve. Obviously, put the sleeve over one of the tubes first and protect the exposed bits of pipe from heat while shrinking the sleeve.

Colin Bignell

It must be because I am from australia that I am completely ignored when I reply, sometimes with the best answer. In this case I have used my method succesfully many times and would rely on it much more than any gap filling method

I suspect that many O/Ps are looking for an answer where the expenditure of a few coppers at the local hardware store gives an easy fix to the relatively unskilled.

Your ingenious suggestion requires knowledge, that the plastic will not be harmed by heat, the availability of a hot air blower, the skill to manufacture the wooden former and the confidence that the problem will not be made worse.

On 13/04/2013 14:47, F Murtz wrote: ...

We all give the best answer. We just don't agree as to what that is.

Colin Bignell

There should be a 'slop' of only 1.25mm when the two pipes are mated. I reckon that some silicone sealant and a well-tightened jubilee clip would suffice. Maybe first cut a short lengthwise slot in end of the outside pipe (and maybe another opposite it) where the jubilee clip is to go, so that the wall grips the inside pipe when the clip is tightened. Allow the sealant to go off before tightening.

My doubt is about whether the pipe is strong enough to withstand the Jubilee clip being tightened enough to be effective. I sell something very similar, but only for use on BS 3505 pipes.

Colin Bignell

Don't advertise the fact. You will be associated with Wodders. I have a brother in Perth. (Oz)

Hmm, if it's just for drainage rather than under any kind of significant pressure then I'd agree with others re. silicone sealant.

Thermal expansion might be something to worry about; some form of clamping to ensure that the two pipes can't move relative to each other might be wise.

cheers

Jules

It's the method I'd use. Solid, secure, reliable. No pissing around with leaky couplers.

It is the way the manufacturers do it,The socket on the end of the pipe is expanded when the pipe is still soft.

I have to apologise to everyone, because just after posting this I discovered that there is a PVC reducing socket for just this purpose, e.g.

I also should point out that the bigger pipe is niminally 40mm, while the smaller is nominally 32mm - these are the designations printed on the pipes. I don't understand how they get these numbers, but I see that they are 1 1/4" and 1 1/2" ID. If I'd said that in my original post I'm sure I would have been told to buy a joining piece.

We didn't know you were from Australia - well I didn't anyway.