I want to batten the walls and install some insulation, but I want to
make sure it's rodent resistant/proof.
Probably use exterior grade osb on the inside, but what insulation to
use ? rockwool or Glass fibre mat ?
What would mice etc not like to nest in is probably the query.
Also need to insulate an up and over garage door, what's best to stick
on here. Clearly I won't be skinning it over with wood due to excess
weight. How about around the edges where the gaps are ?
On 26 Sep 2005 08:45:33 -0700, email@example.com wrote:
I have a recipe for all of this which I've posted a few times, Paul.
My garage has a pitched, trussed, felted roof.
50mm Celotex attached to rafters using long drywall screws with
washers to spread fixing area. Joints taped with foil tape. Leaves
ventilation gap behind.
Fitted vents to soffits.
Boarded over joists with T&G floorboards apart from one area with
liftable hatch and a loft type folding ladder. This provides storage
area above work area which is dry but prevents heat from rising too
quickly from heated work area.
Treated with epoxy floor paint system. One coat of primer mix and two
Created stud frames and bolted bottom plates to floor through DPC
material and fastened to rafters at top. 15mm air gap behind. Filled
frame with 50mm Celotex. Clad with 18mm WBP ply to allow fixings to
be made anywhere.
Cut and fitted 50mm Celotex to doors using Gripfill. Fitted vinyl
weather strips to all gaps by sandwiching strip between lengths of
hardwood (treated) and self tap screwing to edges of doors.
From house system via stainless steel heat exchanger with primary
controlled by a zone valve and separate pump on secondary circuit.
Secondary system filled with antifreeze corrosion inhibitor to prevent
secondary freezing when system off for extended period.
Net result is that space that needed 12kW to heat and in practice got
6kW max, can be heated to 18 degrees at any time of year quite cheaply
using about 3kW. I have about 7kW of radiator capacity deliberately
done to be able to raise the temperature quickly if wanted. It's
usable at any time now, whereas before it was a miserable experience.
I could have gone a step further and made an insulated floor, but I
didn't want to lose the height or have a ramp; plus I have a
woodworking combination machine weighing around a tonne, so floor
would have needed to be quite substantial.
This is something I look at every year, just when the first cold snap
I think the walls and door are priority #1 as it'll give me the best
return on time investment.
"15mm air gap behind. Filled frame with 50mm Celotex."
Hmm, where's the air gap ?
So, batten the floor too then when framing ? not just put the board
down to floor level ? The floor is concrete.
On 27 Sep 2005 02:18:27 -0700, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Yep. For me it was wanting to go out and spend sometimes short
periods doing something and it taking ages to warm the place up.
Yes. The doors definitely first. If you have a steel or wooden
(e.g. ply with timber frame) door, then the U value will be very high.
After that, it's walls and roof. Doing the roof was fiddly because
of cutting shapes to fit the spaces and getting them into place. The
walls were fairly quick.
As you look at the wall, imagine a timber frame constructed from
75x50mm timber. It is fastened to the joists at the top and floor at
the bottom and is spaced off 15mm from the wall at the back. 50mm
Celotex is interference fitted into the frame and seams are taped with
foil tape. The result is a 15mm gap between the back of the frame
and Celotex assembly and the wall. This is open to the soffit vents
and gives ventilation of the inner face of the wall and up behind the
roof insulation as well.
The front face of the frames have 18mm ply fitted to it and then
painted to reflect as much light as possible. I can fix most things
directly to the ply, but heavy items such as my dust extractor (75kg)
can be fitted directly to the studs.
I didn't do the floor. I calculated that doing so would have saved
about 1kW of heating (reduced 3-4kW down to about 2.5kW. However, I
didn't want to lose the height because the ceiling joists are only at
2440mm above the floor. Added to this, I would have had to use
quite a lot of timber to support the woodworking machinery -
combination machine weighing around 1000kg.
However, if it were to be used for something like a games room etc.
then I would have done the floor. Nevertheless, the floor is never
a problem in terms of feeling cold.
I'd like to do it with ply, but I think that'll be a lot more expensive
than OSB. Why did you choose Ply over MDF, OSB or Chipboard ?
Sorry, I wasn't clear, I mean put the framing horizontally, as well as
vertically. I can batten the wall directly as it's brick, so quite easy
to plug and screw to, but I was toying with the idea of not putting a
horizontal batten on the floor. maybe I should and put a piece of DPC
This is a garage, so it'll have to stay conctrete on the floor incase I
put the car in to work on ..
Any ideas where I can get some of that industrial rubber lattice mat
they use in workshops at a reasonable price. I think if i'm off the
floor by the workbench it won't feel quite so cold on the feet.
On 30 Sep 2005 03:37:52 -0700, email@example.com wrote:
Quality, strength and longevity, really. Although the garage does
not have damp issues, I was not enthusiastic about using chipboard or
MDF for deterioration and strength reasons. Possibly OSB would be a
reasonable second choice after ply.
I made rectangular frames with pieces projecting vertically to attach
to the joists. I put DPC material under the horizontal parts of the
frames at the bottom and bolted through them into the floor.
I didn't want to fix frames to the wall at all to allow ventilation
OK. I don't use the garage for cars at all. They belong outside
AFAIAC and car repairers can work on them :-)
Using a good quality epoxy floor paint has been well worthwhile.
Mr Grunff helped me here. Horse mats are moderately inexpensive,
I didn't want to use the lattice type because it is a PITA to clean
sawdust etc. out of it.
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