Insulate external door

UPVC, Timber or Aluminium ?.

If UPVC, then insulated panels are available but cost more than a proper DG glass unit.

replying to Fevric J. Glandules, Iggy wrote: Thin (or thick if you like) foam-board covered by aluminum or plastic sheeting. The upper glass can be sheeted-over with Plexiglas or other clear plastic, to create a dead-air space and insulate quite well. Both are best done on the outside, where protrusion from trim isn't noticed. And, new weather-stripping will also go a very long way.

If aluminium, then there are *loads* of aluminium decor panels insulated with polypropylene piled up at scrap yards all over the place.

I bet they don't get resold :/ for low rise housing where they're appropria te.

NT

Timber - the panel in question is probably plywood.

On our timber doors I removed the moulding and used bubble wrap followed by another piece of ply to hold it in place, and then replaced the moulding to hold it in place. My digital thermometer registered an improvement but I can't remember how much.

Jonathan

Thanks for the suggestion!

If you can get better insulation, do. It's not worth skimping that much.

NT

For the benefit of the archives...

I blagged a piece of 11mm thick underlay from a carpet shop and glued it on to the panel. Then a piece of white-faced ply from B&Q glued and nailed over the top. Hence from the outside in

- the original ply

- underlay

- an air gap of about 5mm

- another piece of ply which should represent a thermal barrier...

Yes, but do include an ali foil layer on the inside of the insulation next time or you may get a buildup of mould & loss of insulation over time. Hopefully you won't but it sometimes happens.

NT

When you say inside, where do you mean? Between the original ply and the underlay?

The original ply is recessed by ~16mm.

Something a bit like this perhaps:

that would do the job.

NT