Hi All
I'm about to fit a belfast sink in my kitchen and as the base is not perfectly flat I'm assuming that this needs to be bedded down on something. Someone mentioned something called 'plumbers mate', is this what I need to use and if so where would I get this?
Many thanks Mat.
No. I used a very thick layer of silicone sealer both to bed it down and to seal the worktop to the underslung sink.
Plumber maite is too soft and doesn't really ever set.
For a solid job use car body filler :-)
"Plumber's Mait", AFAIR. You'll be wanting some of that for putting the plughole outlet in anyway. You should find it anywhere plumberish.
IMHE, the best thing for levelling a Belfast sink is a strip or two of roofing lead.
(or a nice big sledgehammer - I don't like the things).
Thanks for the replies. If I were to use Plumber's Mait would I be able to adjust the position of the sink slightly once the worksurface has been fitted?
Thanks Mat.
I wonder if this is what I know as a buttlers' sink?
I have nine in the garden ...
Mary
Depends what else you use.
Plumber's Mait is squishy and takes a decade to even think of curing. This makes a good seal for plugholes, but a poor locator for sinks (and why I don't use it). It's probably a good way to stop minor wobbliness in the feel of the sink, but you need something else to stop the whole thing sliding sideways if nyone happens to bang into it by accident.
I'd fit the sink, making sure it's level, then fit the worktop to suit. Level other bits to suit it if necessary.
What is the worktop BTW ? You need solid timber with a Belfast sink (or else some sort of stonework) because one of these Happy Shopper chipboard jobbies will only last about 6 months before the ends are dank and festering (why I would never use a Belfast sink myself)
When we moved in here the house ws twenty five years old, it had belonged to my aunt from new.
The 'butlers'' sink - a large, deep, pot one, had a wooden (solid, pre chipboard) grooved draining board which sloped towards the sink and drained into it. The end grain next to the sink was darkened, rotten and smelly. I couldn't wait to replace it with a ss sink and integral draining board.
Mary
If I _were_ to install a belfast sink in a countertop, I'd use teak, and it would be sealed with clear epoxy on the end grain and any exposed rebates. Even then I wouldn't be too fond of doing it.
Nor would I. This was the original 1937 sink and draining board. We moved in in 1963.
Mary
Thanks for the reply.
The sink is now installed ready for the worksurface. In the end I opted to bed the sink on Plumber's Mait just to level if off and stop the wobbles and then seal round the edges with a good quality silicone sealer. The worksurface will be granite so I'm not worried about the rot issue but I have to say I'm a little worried about all the negative views of this kind of sink. I personally like the look of the sink and we have chosen a fairly small one, I just hope that it will be more practical than the responses seem to suggest.
cheers Mat.
I'm not negative about the sink itself, my issue was with not being able to have a continuous, smooth, unbroken line with the draining board. I'm not keen on marble and the like anyway (I've tried it!) and, again in my experience, silicone sealants which are frequently wet go black and have to be replaced.
I suppose if your granit is black it might not show .. :-)
I'm not keen on stainless steel units either but they're the best I can afford.
Possibly, given the wherewithal, I'd have a porcelain sink with continuous (i.e. all in one) porcelain drainers on each side. But we never had tht kind of money and it's not worth it now. Eventually you realise that things aren't as important as practicality.
Presently we're watching designer son make his run down but new to him house just right for him. While in a way I admire his dedication, such as getting every handle making an exact line (who else would notice?) I don't think it's worth his aggravation when things don't go well. Life's too important to waste it on millimetres.
Mary
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