Idiot's guide to plumbing in a washing machine

Hi,

I'm about to replace my aged washer/dryer and was hoping to do the plumbing myself, but don't have the first idea how to go about it. Does anyone know of an idiot-proof guide, either on the web or in a book? (Google seems to have failed me...)

thanks!

Reply to
zzzzara
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I was going to state that anyone who needed a guide to unscrew and rescrew to grips probably couldn't use google (sorry)...but ...then I remembered how my wife an I bought our first washing machine/ Dryer.

When we set-up a house together we had the usual (extremely expensive) outlay of sofa/ bed/ etc.. etc... to buy.

Then my PA at work stated that she had just bought a new washer/ dryer as the one she had (Miele - 4 months old) would leave clothes all wrinkled after the rinse cycle and were a 'b@st@rd" to iron - her words, not mine (and she was in her 60's!).

I asked how much she wanted and she said I could have it for 80 quid (600 new) - bargain - as long as I picked it up - I said okay on the spot! - BTW: I didn't really care about the creasing issue - as my wife does the ironing ;=)

When I went to collect it, I saw that the water feeds had been swapped around!!! - so she was rinsing in 60o+ water - no wonder the clothes were creased! - I pointed this out and said that was all she needed to do was swap these around - but she (and her husband) said the new machine was coming the day after and it didn't matter!

The machine is still going strong - without creasing clothes (7 years later) - although for my sister-in-law now (to whom I sold it to for 200 quid after we had used it for 5 years ;-) - when my wife and I moved to Australia.

Rob

Reply to
Rob

works ok here

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Reply to
R Taylor

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>> RT

Don't be tempted use self-cutting valves for you water supplies. I once fitted one for a outside tap and in the end had to fit a proper T-piece due to drastic loss of pressure. You can obtain U-bend sink wastes which incorporate washing machine waste adaptors, eliminating the need for stand pipes etc. Try BES for your fittings - they're very cheap and very good quality.

Terry D.

Reply to
Terry D

"Terry D" wrote

fitted it wrong then, didn't you :-)

fwiw, I've had to use 2 in my current house, both times there was no access to use compression fittings, both times I've had no problems.

RT

Reply to
R Taylor

I'd be very tempted to turn off the water first!!

Reply to
wattie

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machine from scratch, and not the (presumably much simpler) task of replacing an existing washing machine.

Reply to
zzzzara

Yes, that's all it is - do I need any tools to do this?

I realise it's a very basic question, but it's not something I've ever attempted before.

Reply to
zzzzara

Thanks.

I'm dumb, but not quite that dumb.

Reply to
zzzzara

Without meaining to be rude, do you really have so little initiative as to require a step-by-step description? How about just pulling the machine out and having a look?

Reply to
Grunff

Should be very simple.

Waste pipe probably sits freely in the top of a vertical open ended pipe fixed to the wall. Easy.

Hot and cold pipes unscrew from the back of the machine on plastic fittings. May or may not be tight so a slip-jointed wrench could be useful. Remember to turn off the hot & cold valves at the other end of both pipes first!! Should be a small handle on each that turns through

90 degrees. When you disconnect the pipes there will be some water coming out that was trapped in them, but should only be a cupful or so.

Your new machine will come with new water feed pipes supplied separately in the box. You don't have to use them, but it may be worth it depending on the condition of the old ones. Connect both ends, making sure there is a sealing washer (usually black) in each end and tighten by hand. Turn the valves back on and check for leaks. If there are any try tightening the connectors a bit more, using a wrench if necessary just to 'nip' them up. Be very careful though not to overtighten as the threads are plastic and may strip with excessive force. Run the machine through a cycle and keep checking for leaks.

Bill

** All views expressed are my own and not necessarily those of my employer **
Reply to
Bill

"Bill" wrote | Your new machine will come with new water feed pipes supplied | separately in the box. ... Run the machine through a cycle and | keep checking for leaks.

If it's a new boxed machine it will probably have transit bolts or brackets internally which need to be undone/removed before running the machine.

The OP should look for the usually very obvious instructions on the box or sellotaped to the machine (or inside the drum) on doing this before anything else.

Always a good idea to thoroughly check the drum is both empty and revolves freely before using.

Owain

Reply to
Owain

It's seriously hard to get out and I'd quite like to have an idea of what the score is before I get going.

Reply to
zzzzara

Thanks, that's incredibly helpful.

Reply to
zzzzara

Connect the live wire to the frame, the earth should be trimmed short, and the water goes onto the floor. Stand on the puddle and touch the frame while turning on the power. Be sure to squeeze the metal with both hand as hard as you can.

Reply to
The Abstraction of Justice

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